Wooden Dashboard Installations

[element]

I am sure that some of you will have nice wooden dashboards, perhaps Walnut or Maple - maybe with a small lockable cubby hole...

The one in my Roadster is made of vinyl covered MDF... All the rocker switches are old and cheap looking (though still functional). I have 3 months over winter to overhaul the dash and fit a nice wooden one... What would you do & where would you advise I start? I'll be looking for new switches too. I tried a search on this site but didn't get far with it.

I did see a company on Car SOS a while back that made superb veneer coverings when 'Tim' brought in the old dash - but I have lost the scrap of paper I wrote the name down on...

The speedo has finally stopped working now (the odometer stopped ages ago) & I suspect it needs a new cable, maybe more attention than that.. but as I'll be removing all the instruments anyway it shouldn't matter...

[jon_wilkinson]

Re: Wooden Dashboard Installations

I don't have any suggestions for you but I'll be following this thread with interest as I plan on replacing my dash next year.

[dogoncrazy]

Re: Wooden Dashboard Installations

have a look at 'Timbmet' . A very complete range of veneers on plywood base. I made my first one for a roadster out of a piece of solid Mahogany I had lying around, later changed for solid Walnut. Also made one for my first Cabrio from Marine plywood that I faced with Bird's Eye Maple veneer. I personally wouldn't use MDF as it will just soak up any moisture and distort.

[Mike]

Re: Wooden Dashboard Installations

Hi Element

Is this the type of dash you are considering?



I made a dash support structure in aluminium, and leather trimmed the under tray and console, then had a professional make up a polished wooden dash front to finish it off.


I am lucky enough to live in Lincolnshire where salaries are low, so was able to get a local professional craftsman (he makes replacement dashes for some very expensive classic cars for a living) to make a bespoke dash for me at a "sensible" (read "kit car") price - but it still cost £150 .
I consider that great value when I think of the skill and work that has gone into it, (design, special birch ply back board, Canadian Oak veneer , cutting out a template for trial testing, then cutting out the real dash, and all the gauge holes, polishing and then laquering) but accept its not everyone who wants to spend as much on a hobby car.

If you are interested I can certainly dig out his details?

Good luck with whatever you choose to do.

Mike

For more details of the dash fabrication, you may be interested in a few of these photos? (Click on the small icon photos below to see the next ones available)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/mikes_bmw_marlin_cabrio/4685024179/in/dateposted-public/

[wiggiesworld]

Re: Wooden Dashboard Installations

When I bought my Cabrio this year, one of the changes high on my list was to replace my (leather covered) dash with a wood veneer. The top and stepped in middle is exactly the look I was considering, maybe with a rich cherry or walnut burr. Thanks for the link, fortunately I have loads of relatives in Lincolnshire I can visit if I use this chap.

[element]

Re: Wooden Dashboard Installations

I like your dash there Mike - something very similar to what I would do. Think I could probably do it all myself, I am pretty good working with wood (ex woodturner) and ply with a veneer sounds the way to go. Getting the veneer would be a start
When my Dad built the Marlin I now have, he drilled holes & fitted the instruments and switches then installed it before realizing the right indicator dash flasher was obscured by the steering wheel So I tend to forget it is still on sometimes (too loud to hear it clicking!

[HairyDave]

Re: Wooden Dashboard Installations

Element, Put a piezo buzzer on it . A couple of quid from Tandy . To work on both use diodes. See Car Builder. Mine is louder than the car.

[wiggiesworld]

Re: Wooden Dashboard Installations

BTW I like the look of the A4 S-Line seats you put in the car, how difficult were they to fit?

[Mike]

Re: Wooden Dashboard Installations

BTW I like the look of the A4 S-Line seats you put in the car, how difficult were they to fit?

Very difficult!
I had to cut the transmission tunnel out and make a new narrower one, cut and remove the seatbelt anchor point on the chassis rail, and then cut the external seat runner off and bring it in board of the seat. And it is still a very tight fit!.

............. but it was worth the effort as they are "standard" Audi A4 sport seats, and as such, are still the best I have ever sat in.

[Michael Turpin]

Re: Wooden Dashboard Installations

One of the things that make a dash look as if it’s part of a car is to have it curved to the form of the scuttle, as you won’t find many (if any ) production cars with a flat dashboard.
It makes the job much harder but if as you say you are pretty good with wood then it will present no problem. have a look at pitstop mag 181 pages 17 & 18 2014 in members section
IMG_1334.JPG
All the best, and look forward to seeing the fruit of your labors.

[element]

Re: Wooden Dashboard Installations

Finally, the day came when I could assess the current dashboard, how it is fitted, how easy will it be to undo everything, remove it & make a Plywood one, veneer that & fit it then refit all the dials and switches... I spent many hours figuring, configuring and reconfiguring... I also needed to know how long it's likely to take me and how confident I would be doing it; I always want to know as much as possible before I begin such a task as it's important to always be able to go backwards and refit what was originally there if things don't work out.

Am somewhat daunted by the 'birds nest' behind the dash & the number of different, very, very important labels I will have to fit to each and every wire and plug I carefully undo. Some of the instruments have so many different wires and plugs it will be a very tedious job - especially because for the most part I will be doing so with a mirror and head torch & 'backwards hands'!

The current layout, a mix of vinyl covered fiberglass & MDF board:



A paper template (wallpaper to be precise):


Transferrred to cardboard:


Cardboard 1:


When my Dad made the original dash, he did so without realizing that the steering wheel would obscure the fuel gauge and right side indicator flasher. So not to make this mistake too, I put the steering wheel back in position and drew around it where I couldn't see:




I now have a plan. Still in two minds whether to keep the original steering lock / key switch - if I do, then I have cut away an area to the right hand side of the steering column to get my hand in to be able to put the original key in and out of it & this will also allow the steering column cowling to fit as it did stretching back deep into the RHS cavity there. If I don't, and I remove the steering lock & old keyswitch altogether, it will look nicer but won't be so secure without an alarm system of some sort.

Have begun hunting tonight for an affordable, attractive veneer for the ply. Quite taken by Ash. I need 43" x 10" & 10" x 15" for the lower central console board which hides the heater assembly etc..

Now and again over the next 6 weeks I'll update this thread to show progress (or not!)

[element]

Re: Wooden Dashboard Installations

The Ash Veneer arrived today, the box was a bit crushed and the 250 x 30cm veneer was damaged inside - but there's enough 'good veneer' for me to do the job, so I'm happy. I bought it off an ebay seller:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282368042857?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

However it was cheap and you get what you pay for; in this case insufficiently tough enough packaging. It's alright, I can use it.

I cut the darker stained end off:





Now to get working on the ply...

[element]

Re: Wooden Dashboard Installations

Well it took a LOT longer than I expected it to…

I cut the ply to the match the cardboard template..



Then cut out the glovebox door and taped it over to hold it in place while I glued the veneer on the face side.. I also cut out all the instrument holes & light bezel holes too..



Veneer glued with ‘Titebond’ glue.. & left to press in a sandwich between to other ply boards with plenty of weight on top, left overnight…



In the morning I found 95% was good & the 5% was a little rippled but I could live with it..



I then cut the door out & trimmed the edge of the veneer all round with a very sharp scalpel blade. Gave it all a light sand over with 240 & 400 grade paper. Then it was 4x coats of ‘Pine’ wood dye until I was happy with the colour. Another light sand with 400, and a spray with cellulose sanding sealer (because the grain of Ash is quite open). A light sand with 600 and another light spray with sealer. Finally I then sprayed it all with nitrocellulose wood laquer , building up some 6-7 coats I think. I sanded lightly after the 3rd coat & subsequent coats until the final one stayed as it is.
I might add that I also removed the original central console panel which held the ‘stuck’ heater lever. Cleaned it all up, painted the rust with hammerite & lubricated the mechanism for the heater. It was made of aluminium with a black vinyl covering. I planned to move all the rocker switches onto it – so spent a long time carefully cutting out the holes for the switches. Then I glued veneer onto it & treated it exactly the same as the dashboard.

With the dash finished, I bought the smallest brass hinges I could find in B&Q and fitted the door; it took hours to do this one little job – because I had to very carefully cut away ½ the depth of the hinge into the dash body & ½ into the door & because the ply is so tough – it was a lot of gentle cutting and a lot of very sharp chisel work & filing work.. Finished that – then I turned to the cavity box. The old one was ‘too good to throw away’ – although a little smaller than the door – I fitted it in position with epoxy putty to fill the gaps..






The putty cuts and sands smooth when dry & is very useful because it doesn’t go off quick – unlike body filler! I bought a little key lock for the glovebox door & drilled a hole for it to fit. Had to also cut a slot in the inner cavity chamber top for the locking cam to go.
I refitted the console panel. I wanted to bring it forwards but couldn’t because of the position of the heater assembly & didn’t want to have to redesign the switch mechanism to allow it to work from a further distance. So I put it back where it was.



Having fitted all the switches in (checking they all still work before & after) I then realized that the wiring loom was too short to cater for the new dash / console wiring plan. So I spent a long time cutting about 30 wires and soldering new sections of wire in & heatshrink tubing over the joints. I fortunately kept an old PC PSU because ‘one day’ I would need all those wires!



Fitting the dash was a bit awkward because I couldn’t remove the steering column & had made the dash too wide for the cockpit inner width but ideal for its ‘outer width inside’ – I knew this would be a challenge getting it in, but I had faith it would go. Undoing the 2 screws either side that hold the left & right sides of the fiberglass inside cockpit (don’t know its name)to the metal sides to give it a little more flexibility & then with a good flex – the dash went in.



Then some cutting either side to push it back a bit & get the angle right.. When I was happy with it I glued some wooden blocks either side behind the dash to hold it in position & gave a bead of silicone all around the top inside (front & back) to ensure it won’t move at all.
I then spent AGES cutting the steering wheel stem switch gear cowling to fit the new shape and angle of the dash… I had bought a new wiper stem switch & had earlier fitted that too.

Having got the wires the length I wanted them to be, I then began refitting all the instruments & light bezels, leaving the oil pressure / water temperature gauge till last. It proved to be as difficult to put back in as it was to remove with the long capillary water pipe going with sensor back through the bulkhead to the front of the engine & the oil pressure tubing feed…
Eventually it was all done.




You’ll note that I have nothing around the immediate dash in front of the steering wheel – this is because I found the steering wheel does obscure stuff there – so I wanted all the dials and lights where I can see them…
I now understand why some businesses charge a small fortune for work like this!

I also need to tidy up the appearance of the edges inside either side of the cockpit at each end of the dash... I'm thinking of filler and sanding it smooth then painting maybe...

Car is almost back on the road now… Looking forward to blue skies and sunshine roads…

[dcunn]

Re: Wooden Dashboard Installations

Great job, well done, looks very good

[b_caswell]

Re: Wooden Dashboard Installations

Very smart you could try wrapping some vinyl over foam padding to fill the corners