Mike's Cabrio Build

[Skittler]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Mike,

"If your using a single led bulb it needs to be connected to the indicator feed wire and to earth before the switch, it should not cause the indicators to flash as it cannot draw enough current to cause the relay to operate, if its a "normal" bulb you connect each side to the indicators out put (left and right, one wire to each) if its a LED light and your connecting it after the indicator switch then the connecting wires for L+R need to be joined using diodes on each wire to the LED +ve connection.." Locost site

It has just worked fine for me with 'normal bulbs.

[Mike]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Mike,

"If your using a single led bulb it needs to be connected to the indicator feed wire and to earth before the switch, it should not cause the indicators to flash as it cannot draw enough current to cause the relay to operate, if its a "normal" bulb you connect each side to the indicators out put (left and right, one wire to each) if its a LED light and your connecting it after the indicator switch then the connecting wires for L+R need to be joined using diodes on each wire to the LED +ve connection.." Locost site

It has just worked fine for me with 'normal bulbs.

Hi Skittler
I am using a single LED bulb, and a Premier wiring loom: I have not traced my warning lamp wires back into the harness yet, but because all four lights now flash I concluded they are wired in after the switch. I also wondered if diodes in the two +ve supplies was the way to go.

Next question: what diode?
There seem to be lots of properties of a diode. A quick look on RS Components site left me quite unsure!

I need one with 12-15v
But what current? I think an indicator flasher bulb is 22watts, so are two bulbs 44w. Therefore would a 50-100w diode be ok? And what is back voltage? And how can a diode be bi - directional? I thought a diode only let current flow one way?

Anyone know about diodes and which one I need?

Skittler
When you say it has just worked fine for you with normal bulbs, does this mean you fitted two warning lights?

Mike

[Tony Stott]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Anyone know about diodes and which one I need?


I think any of the 1N4000 series should work, I used 1N4004's on a panel some time ago without probs - always try to use something more capable than reqd - i use them in r/c speed controllers were 4001's specd, had probs in the past but using 4004's has eliminated them!
Back voltage is generated when switching off, normally produced in coils etc and diodes normally inserted to protect transistors etc were back emf can cause serious probs(cf speed controller in r/c apps)
Hope thats clear and of course helps!
tony

[Skittler]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Hi Mike

Just one warning light, Mike.

Just as the 'Locost' stated but please remember I am rebuilding a Marina wiring loom with non of the modern electrical components: just switches, wires and connectors!

[Mike]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Thanks Skittler

Mine is basic Ford system, so no hi-tec components to be concerned about.

These diodes are only pennies, so I'll give them a go.

Mike

[Mike]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Yeah!!!!!!!!!

I collected a pack of 10 1N4002 diodes from RS Components today for the grand sum of 35p. Fitted two of them - didn't know which way round they needed to be, but they worked first time!!

Thanks Tony for the direction to the 1N4000 range.


Now:
Indicate left = left only indicators
Indicate right = right only indicators

Hazards on = both indicators.

Whoooohoooo!!!

Its hard when you don't know what you are doing!
But you guys make it easier.

Many thanks to all who offered help on this forum and others.

Very grateful
Mike

[Mike]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

On a roll now...........

I have dip beam on with main beam, but not the other way round - marvellous things these diodes!

Also changed the rear fog light to only come on when the main lights are on - my Premier Wiriring loom had it so that it could be switched on with only the sidelights on, which is an IVA fail.

Courtesy lights under the dash now wired in.

In fact I think that is the wiring connection completed - provided it all works when its plugged together.

Now I (just!) need to tidy up the general mess of wires behind the dash.

[Skittler]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Well done, Mike, I can almost see you smiling from ear to ear.

(My loom is back together.)

[Mike]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Is there such a thing as "neat wiring"?

I've made my dash completely indepedent from the car loom, so it just has to be plugged in via the multi-pin connectors.

IMG_3756.jpg

I know there are two schools of thought regarding electrical connections - some say not to use solder, others say mechanical crimps can fail too.

I have chosen the mechanical crimp route, but used the connectors with heat shrink glue lined covers. I think they are brilliant. They require care about where to make the crimp, but once made , shrunk, and the glue warmed up to ooze out of the ends, they make a very robust joint.
I guess time will be the judge of how durable they are..................

So far I have tested all the warning lights and they come on when they are supposed to: I have not checked that they go off when they should as this will require the engine to be run again, but that will not happen until I change my diff for my new 3.14 ratio diff, which will require droping my tank out.

[Mike]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

I took these photos of a Roadster that impressed me over 20 years ago, and have had a request for copies.

You may notice some of the design cues have found their way into my Cabrio 20 years later!

Q739 BAL Roadster Interior 3.jpg


Q739 BAL Roadster Exterior.jpg


Q739 BAL Roadster Interior 1.jpg


Q739 BAL Roadster Interior 2.jpg

[Tony Stott]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Mike,
Why no solder, what are the supposed probs??
t

[h_m_cumming]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

I've always soldered joins on cars, never had a problem, but it's important not to let the solder wick up the wire and form a hard spot outside the connector .

[Mike]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Mike,
Why no solder, what are the supposed probs??
t

Hi Tony

I have seen it suggested that there are two possible issues:

If the wire is acid etched to make a better solder joint, the acid continues to etch the copper and corrodes/rots it through time.

Secondly, the join goes hard, and weakens the copper wire at the very edge of the solder. Through time vibration can cause the wire to fail.

Crimping has its drawbacks too, as the crimp can fail, so there is no right or wrong.

I have chosen the glue lined crimp joints as they seem to help prevent a wire pulling out of a poor crimp.

Mike

[Tony Stott]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Thanks, just curious, always soldered over many years personally
T

[cameronfurnival]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

INteresting comment on the acid etch...I was told by a plumber recently that they favour plastic pipe to copper because the flux used in making soldered joints never gets cleaned off and continues to eat into the copper over time. I asked how long it would take for problems to become apparent and it was one of those "pieces of string" answers. My guess would be over 20 years - I say that because when I was into property developing I replumbed several houses in copper and I know that not one of them has sprung a leak in 20 years. Wonder if the same applies to wires? I have often taken wiring apart in older spitfires and midgets to find it has gone green and maybe we should accept that a bit of rewiring may be required once the car is getting on a bit? How future proof are we trying to achieve?