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Back axle noise.

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  • Back axle noise.

    I was hoping someone might be able to give me some advice about a back axle noise I am getting. I have a Triumph based Roadster. The noise is a metallic clinking sound. The noise is a drive noise rather than suspension noise as it happens when I pull away not when I go over bumps. I have had the the back wheels off and taken a look at the UV joints both on the drive shafts between the diff and the wheels. I have also looked at the UV joints of the prop shaft. None of them show any real signs of wear or that any thing is loose. There is a bit of play between the prop and wheels, don't know how much play is acceptable. There is no whining sound so I didn't think this was related to the differential?

    Any suggestions. I thought I might take it down to the local garage and let them take a look as I am not particularly experienced with this issue. The garage are pretty good generally.

    Any thoughts, anyone.

    Cheers

    Dan Cook

  • #2
    Re: Back axle noise.

    Hi Dan, I'm no expert, but I'd re check the propshaft joints first. Mine went last year, see pics in my earlier posts, but it wasn't till I removed the prop did I realise just how badly ( and dangerously ) they had worn. Didn't cost too much to get new one made.
    Gareth.

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    • #3
      Re: Back axle noise.

      My money is on one of the drive shaft U/Js is starting to break up and until you actually take the drive shaft off wont be obvious. When replacing get hold of the heavy duty version for a Freelander made by GKN 1300 series. they also have a greasing point. Try the Triumph Sports Six Club <www.tssc.org.uk> If your not up to changing the actual u/j you could do a deal and take the drive shafts off the car yourself and get the garage to change them for you.
      Ben Caswell probably not the last word on anything here!!

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      • #4
        Re: Back axle noise.

        Thanks for advice so far. I have recently replaced one of the the drive shaft C/V joints. I was driving home one evening when a vibration started, I managed to limp home. When I checked the next day one of the caps had come off the C/V joint the the hole in the yoke was no longer very circular!. I did take all the relevant bits apart and managed to replace the U/V joint and the flange, following the advice in the Haynes manual and put it all back together. I would be able to do the other side if it came to it.

        Am I right in thinking this would be step one. Then if the noise persists maybe try the prop shaft U/V joints? Also how essential are the grease nipples, do people generally grease these C/V joints? If so how often as I am assuming it is not easy for the initial grease to get out of the joint? Can you overgrease? would this put pressure on the clips?

        I did look in to buying a spider with a grease nipple but looking at my flanges thought if might foul of the joint?

        Thanks in anticipation.

        Dan Cook

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        • #5
          Re: Back axle noise.

          Ben
          When you mentioned the GKN 1300 series is that a prop shaft U/V joint or the drive shaft one? I have had a look on ebay but they all seem to be prop shaft U/V's is this general term that applies to various drive shaft U/V's. Am I being dense?. Is there a specific part number I should look out for.

          Ta

          Dan

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          • #6
            Re: Back axle noise.

            The drive shaft u/j's work twice as hard because they take the lateral load of the suspension aswell the drive. Generally they are the first thing to go as the prop doesnt move up and down like on a live axle.
            People forget to pack the cups with grease before assembly. Having the greasable one allows for additional greasing(just a couple of strokes) after a couple of years or so and also makes pressing the cups in easier by leaving the grease nipple out until you have finished.
            Having said that its best to make up blanking screws(original on the Triumph) for the drive shaft ones as the long grease nipple can snap off. note the lube boss goes towards the centre of the car.

            All the u/js on your car are the same type and size, not sure if these numbers are GKN or TSSC but;-
            Std u/j with lube 18050,
            Heavy duty(freelander series 1140) HS151-1these are supposed to be the best .

            Ignore my note about 1300 series that was a mistake sorry.
            Ben Caswell probably not the last word on anything here!!

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            • #7
              Re: Back axle noise.

              Thanks for the info Ben. The U/V joint I installed did have quite a lot of grease in the cups when I bought it. Should I have added more. Do you think it is worth replacing both of them with grease nipple versions of the joint? Maybe replace the old one first?

              Dan

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              • #8
                Re: Back axle noise.

                A bit extra grease wouldnt hurt too much just squeezes out. do the old one and see how it goes. I would have done both at the same time really. Then you only have to bleed the brakes once.http://www.aronblack.com/421/stuff/r...umph-spitfire/ dont try to rush the job but this may give you some tips
                Last edited by b_caswell; 21-03-15, 01:00 PM.
                Ben Caswell probably not the last word on anything here!!

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                • #9
                  Re: Back axle noise.

                  Once again, thanks Ben. Yeah I won't try and do it in 5 mins!!!

                  Dan

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                  • #10
                    Re: Back axle noise.

                    Originally posted by b.caswell View Post
                    Having said that its best to make up blanking screws(original on the Triumph) for the drive shaft ones as the long grease nipple can snap off. note the lube boss goes towards the centre of the car.
                    Great tip there Ben, It's difficult to visualise the amount of travel and angle the Marina prop shaft and the Triumph drive shafts move through even on smooth roads and the nipple can so easily get swiped off during 'spirited' driving.

                    The grease nipples are threaded 1/4" UNF so a grub screw will do, or the part from Rimmer Brothers who also many more variants of grease nipples.
                    MOC member since 05/97
                    1984 Marlin Roadster SWB.
                    1800TC, Unleaded ported head, stage 2 cam. Ford Type 9 gearbox, Dolomite Sprint rear axle fitted with MGF disc brakes.
                    Three core radiator, Renault Clio vented front discs.
                    The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on the unreasonable man.

                    Loads of Marlin Reference can be found documents here or there.

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