Guide Tubes - Handbrake

[IDM]

Any help please the Mk 1 roadster rebuild may well be able to be driven out the garage soon. Its a rolling chassis . I'd really like to get the handbrake at least functioning again,
Can anyone remember the cable guide tubes that route the handbrake cables around the differential.
I've obviously put them somewhere safe so I need to fabricate some
What are they made of ? Steel/Copper tube ?
My new cable is 4mm O/D . Any suggestions where to get two around 18" length of pipe for this ?
Also does anyone actually do the foam greased taped thing mentioned in the build manual . Any photos appreciated
Hopeful post a video of the drive out before Christmas ! Now I said it !
Many Thanks

[davidraw2024]

I'm pretty sure they are just steel, mine are heavily painted which probably meant I recognised them as a corrosion risk.

I never taped on any foam for oiling purposes but just kept the cable greased and the handbrake has worked just fine for over forty years.

Google will probably offer up endless suppliers of suitable tubing. "Pipe Dream Fittings" would be an option if you are thinking of upgrading to stainless steel.

I am currently reconditioning the rear axle / suspension of my car and so have a couple of photos showing the tubes.

Look forward to seeing your car when finished

[TVRFan]

A long time ago now, but I never could get a 'low friction' solution with the pipes. I used a twin flexible cable which I think came from a Dolomite ?? But anyway, the outer was a standard type handbrake/clutch cable, and I checked the inner ran freely inside it (clutch cables have hard plastic liners, which helps) and it worked a LOT better after that. The other thing to check is that those sliding levers in the rear drums tend to make their own 'wear groove' in the backplate after a while and this also prevents handbrake working properly, as levers don't slide anymore (pull from the cable makes the levers stick even harder in their wear grooves). I welded up the wear, and in fact made a small hump (had to file/grind it back a bit afterwards to get clips in) and that helped even more.

[IDM]

Many Thanks David and TVRFan , Pipe fitting Dreams looks promising and I see what you are saying about the ware groove ! Excellent Advice

[IDM]

I'm pretty sure they are just steel, mine are heavily painted which probably meant I recognised them as a corrosion risk.

I never taped on any foam for oiling purposes but just kept the cable greased and the handbrake has worked just fine for over forty years.

Google will probably offer up endless suppliers of suitable tubing. "Pipe Dream Fittings" would be an option if you are thinking of upgrading to stainless steel.

I am currently reconditioning the rear axle / suspension of my car and so have a couple of photos showing the tubes.

Look forward to seeing your car when finished

Many Thanks David , Excellent Advice , sorry I can't seem to open them big any chance you can try and send them bigger ?

[davidraw2024]

Hi there,

I suspect the pictures may have been too big to open so I have resized them (smaller ironically) to see if that works. Not sure they will show you anything you don't already know but at least it is a working example of the original design. I notice Paul Moorhouse makes reference to an Allegro cable upgrade in later Mk1s but this sounds like it was a redesign rather than something that could be retro fitted. Reconnecting the handbrake cable is next on my to do list and it looks like I need to scrape some stray Hammerite paint off the cable first
I will also find out if the set up is as effective as I remember!

[davidraw2024]

Nope that hasn't worked either, maybe a glitch with photos?

[davidraw2024]

03 Handbrake tubes.jpg 01 Handbrake tubes.jpg 02 Handbrake tubes.jpgTried copy and paste...

[TVRFan]

I am trying to remember - but I think I ended up not using those original blocks at all, and made/reused a couple of brackets attached to the trailing (now leading) arm bolt. Or maybe the pivot bolt. A bit like the brake pipes, but on the hub. Um....Anyway, this meant a much gentler curve. I do remember that the donor already had a twin cable and a small 'balance bar' and rod but I cannot remember in detail how I attached it. I think it had a length of unsheathed inner, so I probably mounted a carrier for the outer down the tunnel somewhere. Sorry for lack of details ! I don't have any photos either....

[TVRFan]

I had a look in Rimmer Bros website, and the cable I used was like the TR6 one (https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID600159) I note the TR6 one has mounting blocks on it, which now I see it, looks familiar too. This picture is for illustration only, I don't think it was a TR6 cable as I'm fairly sure I got it from a scrappers somewhere, but this style anyway.. I guess this style of cable would come from something with independent rear suspension.

[IDM]

Thanks Guys more great tips, I'll have a look at the Rimmer suggestion TVRFan
FYI I have ordered suitable tube stainless from the pipe dream people only £9 but double that with VAT & post , nothing cheap but I may have the best handbrake workings only Marlin
Yep I see the photos now , you are doing well . If I can work out how to upload I will
Thanks Again Both

[davidraw2024]

With the handbrake cable reconnected I can confirm it is reassuringly effective and can make the following observations:

The pull off springs need to be adjusted to ensure they are properly compensating for any friction in the system (doing some heavy lifting as shown) which they appear to do well and from a maintenance point of view the lubrication of the cable through the tubes probably needs to be considered a service item. In summary a redesign would be a nice to have but the original set up is perfectly workable.

It would nice to know if anybody did come up with suitable dust seals for this original design?

Hope this is helpful

04 Handbrake Tubes.jpg

[IDM]

Hi Again David, Looks reassurinly similar. Also you appear to have the same number of leafs as me I was worried it was too many now i put new buttons in . Time will tell . Yes I may just try the foam soaked in grease and taped around tube ends. After all the advances in tape technology since the 80s will probably suffice.
Anyway , THANKS for you brilliant write up in the PitStop received today ....inspired me on even though my back is killing me from these blooming handbrake cables lol

[davidraw2024]

What are the chances of two Mk1 owners doing similar work on their car at the same time!

A heads up on the spring, you are quite right the buttons do raise the ride height which unsurprisingly affects the rear wheel camber. I have included a picture and the first thing to say is I suspect the spring as shown would be perfect for your car as you have the six cylinder engine (I believe). As I have the four cylinder (but do also have an overdrive unit) unfortunately the spring as is has given the car a very slight positive camber at rest and I understand 2% negative camber is desirable.

Strap in and I'll give you a breakdown of my experience so far! Like you I suspected the spring overhaul would effect ride height so I removed the leaf that was in the position of the blue square and added in the leaf positioned in the red circle. No science here just pure guess work. I am going to remove the leaf in the red circle in the hope that an 8 leaf spring will be enough to achieve the desired camber. As changing a leaf is no quick job hopefully this might help you decide what combination you need to go for.

I know what you mean about the back ache, I was 19 when the car first hit the road and aches were not a concern

Glad you liked the Pitstop article the car really is a joy, hang in there, you won't be disappointed. Not seen the new Pitstop as yet, I get it electronically so I assume they haven't been sent out yet.

Would appreciate a post if you have success with the foam lubrication solution...

00 Rear Spring.jpg

[TVRFan]

Just in case it helps.... (6 cyl and TR6 box) I used softest front springs I could find (spitfire mk3 I think) and experimented a few times on rear spring combinations. With wider tyres (185/70) did get rubbing on body, so I changed half shafts for the 'swing spring' (Spitfire 4 ?) which are slightly longer than Vitesse ones, but otherwise identical. They still fit with original spring. I remembered only removing 2 leaves in the end. Buttons help with spring movement, so you should keep them if you can.

Back to handbrake - It's quite possible my major problem with handbrake was more down to those wear grooves in the backplate, but I did those and the cable at the same time, so I don't know for sure. Hbrake was one hell of a lot better afterwards, anyway