Improving dash & switches

[gouldsborough7]

One of my Winter projects is to improve the dash on my Berli using burr walnut laminate. The current facia looks to be varnished plywood! I've got the laminate, but before I start on mock-ups in mdf board, I want to plan where everything will go.
Like most other Berlis I suspect we share the same basic problems, with wiper and headlamp stalks tucked under the right-hand side of the dash, and the indicator stalk bent at right-angles through on hole on the left.

I can just cope with the indicator stalk and the ignition switch, but the lamp & wiper versions are a bit weird, and need to be more accessible I think. I was thinking of buying decent switches and fitting them somewhere on the dash.

Has anyone come up with some good alternatives? I would be interested to find some options, together with the snags of rejigging the wiring.

Cheers
Mike

[macdonald.dm]

Re: Improving dash & switches

Hi Mike.

I, too, am in the process of completely rebuilding my Berli dash. I've taken lots of photos, and I'm also writing it up as a possible mag feature.

Yes, the horrific dash cut-outs...

My solution - although it hasn't been reassembled yet - is to take care of the stalk switches as follows:

(a) the wiper control will become a rocker switch mounted on the actual dash, with a separate, non-latching, rocker serving the washers.

(b) The indicator/beam-dip stalk has been modified by shaping and adding a new 'arm' to it so that it now exits right against the steering column, and the actual control stalk sits parallel to the dash surface as it should. I've actually got this part up and running, and I'm very pleased with it. A new, separate, horn button will be located on the dash to the right of the column. (My Berli came with a separate horn-push in any case, as the existing stalk had a chopped end - is this usual?!

(c) The side/main lights stalk... Ahem I chickened out here because I couldn't find a matching light rocker that had a similar number of terminals, so the light stalk will remain on the column, accessed by reaching underneath! My new dash won't have a RH cut-out, but I've checked and the light stalk should be perfectly easy to reach and use by touch.

I'm also going to have a dash-mounted ignition switch, whilst retaining the one on the column to act as an addition anti-theft device. They'll have to be wired in series so that the column switch is first turned - releasing the steering lock - before the dash switch becomes 'live'.

I'll try and add some photos to give you some ideas.

[GaryW]

Re: Improving dash & switches

Yes, once I've tracked down my oil leak, I want to re-fit my dash again too. I think the varnished plywood might be a "standard kit part" as mine had the same. I'm currently running with an MDF mock up whilst I decide what to do.
I don't have the indicator and lights problem however, as the builder of mine used the steering column complete with switch-gear, so I have lights, indicator, wash/wipe all on the column. The only drawback being the plastic stalks from the Sierra donor. Still pondering that one...
Could anyone post some pics of dash layouts to help us out please?

[macdonald.dm]

Re: Improving dash & switches

Ok, photos, hopefully...

The dash panel should show just how small - relatively - the slot is for the indicator stalk to exit from. It's small because it's in line with the actual moving pivot point of the control switch, so that when you turn the stalk to indicate it simply rotates where it comes through the dash and doesn't travel in an arc. The slot does need to be wider than it is tall, however, because moving it from beam to dip DOES mean that the section coming through the dash has to travel a short distance sideways. I'm pleased with how it looks - very small and neat - and it does work well.

The 4 dial holes are for fuel, tachy, speedo and temp. I'm actually modifying the existing nasty Cortina dash to use here! I'm taking them apart and using the guts along with custom-made dials (simple drawing package) and needles - along with chrome bezels - to make individual clocks which shouldn't have any compatibility problems.

Anyways, that's the plan...

[macdonald.dm]

Re: Improving dash & switches

Oh, and the indicator stalk was modified by chopping off most of the original arm, bending the remaining part a bit more steeply, and by adding on (using a metal sleeve, 2 split pins and lots of epoxy adhesive) a new arm shaped out of 6mm dia steel rod with a short piece of 8mm dia sleeve added for looks and comfort!

[macdonald.dm]

Re: Improving dash & switches

Hi Gary.

Is your Berli Sierra-based, then? Our cars have the Cortina column along with the original Cortina control stalks. The problem arises because the stalks are all mounted BELOW the dashboard level hence the nasty cut-outs to allow access!

[gouldsborough7]

Re: Improving dash & switches

Mike's reply: Mine's a Cortina-based column and stalks, with an alloy extension under the steering wheel. One problem in a major re-jig will be the wiring, tucked away deep under the current dash. Will have to come up with a safe and easy way of extending the wires - anyone found a good method? Have used chocolate-block connectors in the past, but while they work OK, they don't look much more than a bodge.

I think the indicator stalk will have to remain, to keep the efficient self-cancelling action. However, to reduce the cut-out hole size I might eliminate the dip to main-beam action by mounting an old-fashioned floor-switch operated by left foot.

The lighting and wiper stalks can be replaced by dash-mounted switches. Car Builder Solutions have a good range from which to chose.

I wouldn't mind putting a new ignition switch on the dash, but the self-locking steering-wheel arrangement would have to go, and extending the chunky cables could be a problem.

Thanks guys for your ideas. Has given me more to think about.
Cheers
Mike

[macdonald.dm]

Re: Improving dash & switches

Hi Mike.

I have to say that my self-cancelling action never worked, so I'm not missing it too much! However, doing what I did to the stalk arm shouldn't affect this operation in any case, as the actual switch body still remains in exactly the same place as before on the steering column. So, if yours self-cancels at the moment, it should also do so after this mod.

I have to say the main prompt for me to re-do my dash was to get rid of the cut-outs - it really was a priority as they are gruesome. I also found that the way the indicator end poked through the hole in the dash at a very tall angle - giving you only the end part to get hold off - was very awkward to use.

Although I plan to fit a dash-mounted ignition switch, I will be keeping the steering column lock for its anti-theft function. I anticipate leaving the key in the column switch virtually all of the time, removing it only if my car was parked somewhere particularly risky; for day-to-day use the dash switch will suffice.

Extending wiring is an age-old problem. I have bought a crimping tool and assorted crimps which I've already found useful around the car. However, they aren't exactly pretty, and a bunch of them together can look bulky and untidy. One major advantage of them, tho', is that you can crimp removable 'bullet' fittings to your wire joins which can be pulled apart afterwards if required (don't forget to make the 'live' ends 'female'!

If you want a slim permanent joint, then it's ok to strip, twist and solder the wires together, wrapping them afterwards in tape. If there is more than one wire to be joined this way, I usually stagger the joins in each wire (ie: making the wire cuts in slightly different places - 1cm apart, for example), so that if a wire does become untaped (which, of course it shouldn't!) the exposed wire won't be in line with another potential naked wire. After each individual wire is insulated, it's worth also taping them all together to make a secure bundle.

Yes, terminal blocks are handy, but very bulky. They also should be wrapped in tape afterwards as the screw heads could be accessed by something sharp and metallic - and sod's law will dictate that will happen if you don't!

[Dane_Rescueman]

Re: Improving dash & switches

For permanent joins I use the heatshrink sleeves from Vehicle Wiring Products. These are available in various sizes and contain a ring of solder. Any reasonable heat gun allows a superb slimline fix in one go.

[GaryW]

Re: Improving dash & switches

Hi Donnie,
Yes mine is Sierra based. I hadn't realised that would make such a difference. It sounds like you guys have to do some careful cutting to make the stalks work. I can post a picture of my current dash if anyone is interested but from what you've said it won't help you much.

[johnsr]

Re: Improving dash & switches

hi mike,
I have fitted the Sierra column in my Berlinetta. Because you can extend the colum the switches are outside of the dash.

Roger

[clive]

Re: Improving dash & switches

Pics of my dashboard, if it's any help.

[macdonald.dm]

Re: Improving dash & switches

Jeepers, now that is clever, Clive! What a novel way to hide the stalks.

[gouldsborough7]

Re: Improving dash & switches

Just another thought to improve the appearance of the dashboard at night, as well as making things easier to see. Has anyone been successful in brightening up Triumph gauges? In particular, the small ones on my Berli are really dull, so much so that I nearly ran out of petrol, noticing in the nick of time that the needle in the petrol gauge was knocking on the Empty position. I wonder whether increasing the wattage of the bulbs might help, but usually bigger watts means bigger bulbs, and therefore the glass sphere wouldn't fit through the aperture in back of the gauges.

Cheers
Mike

[jon_cox]

Re: Improving dash & switches

Mike,
Check that the gauges lights are wired in parallel not series. My roadster had them wired in series and were very dull. Once rewired they were much brighter.