Ignition light problem.

[macdonald.dm]

Re: Ignition light problem.

Happy New Oil Light!

Now, that's a very neat dash - worth all the effort!

(What did you use to line the cut-outs and the bottom edge? Not 'hockey stick' trim by any chance...)

[gouldsborough7]

Re: Ignition light problem.

Yes, I am very pleased with the dash. Much better than the old varnished plywood version that the car came with. Part of the plan was also to revamp the layout somewhat, and improve the 'holes'. I plan to stick some vinyl patches behind these, with slots to allow the levers to poke through & work. Hopefully, this will look OK, and conceal the various cables and fittings showing through at present.

The edging came from Woolies: Cat No. 210-BR, costing £1.42 per metre + p&p + VAT.

Originally I bought 2 metres, but I did not realise initially that, to do the whole circumference in one piece, I needed most of that. Of course, I started cutting off lengths for the port-holes, and ended up with buying another 2 metres to finish the job. Anyway, I think it was worth it.

I glued (Evo-stick)the edging right around the dash circumference, and staple-gunned the top edge, and nailed (upholstery pins)the sides and bottom. See pic. The vinyl sides were made from scraps in stock: MDF with dense sponge and vinyl glued on.

The edging of the port-holes was glued also, with staples in areas where the glue might not hold.

Hope that's answered your question. Can supply more if required.

Cheers
Mike

[macdonald.dm]

Re: Ignition light problem.

Thanks Mike.

I've checked out the Woolies site, but it's hard to see what profile that trim has - is it like 'wing' piping, ie like a round pipe with a flat blade on it?

I had been searching high 'n' low for 'J' profile trim for exactly the same task as yours. As it turned out, a very helpful dealer sent me a long enough sample of a similar profile for me to do the job!

Where did you get the wood dash? Is it in a single piece going the whole width?

[gouldsborough7]

Re: Ignition light problem.

Hi Donnie
The profile is like wing piping, with a solid pipe on one edge. The fabric is a thin vinyl I guess.

The dash and the console beneath it I cut from one plank supplied by Europa - see address below.
https://www.europaspares.com/search.asp?searchquery=walnut

Europa do the genuine burr walnut, but I opted for the imitation, which apart from being cheaper, it is maintenance-free. It is a laminate on MDF. It cuts quite well with a fine jigsaw blade or fret-saw, drills OK with a hole saw. All final finishing was done with variety of files and sandpaper.

The console is made up of leftovers. The walnut on this is 2 odd pieces joined at the back with metal strips. Fitting the vent at the join meant that there wasn't much of a join to notice. The sides were made up in a similar way to the sides of the dash in my photo, i.e.mdf with sponge & vinyl glued on.

Whole budget I guess was around £50, including walnut board, piping, glue, upholstery pins, the allen-headed dome bolts. Brackets, other metal strips, vinyl, sponge etc were all leftovers from other jobs.

Hope this helps
Cheer
Mike

[macdonald.dm]

Re: Ignition light problem.

Thanks, Mike.

Wow, what a bargain! It's the best kind of task, where it's labour-intensive - but a labour of love!

Do you have a 'before' photo?!!

[gouldsborough7]

Re: Ignition light problem.

By chance I have photos supplied to me by the previous owner. While the original dash was OK, I wanted to create something a bit better. Having 'cut my teeth' so-to-speak on a burr walnut dash on my Robin Hood Exmo, I decided to do the same with my Berli. Also, I wanted to change the layout, make the 'holes' nicer, have a new ignition switch within easy reach etc. Pics below.

Cheers
Mike

[macdonald.dm]

Re: Ignition light problem.

Yes, a lot of people would be quite happy with that original dash!

The burr wood is lovely, tho', the idiot lights much better positioned, and the overall finish just much better.

Nice job.

[gouldsborough7]

Re: Ignition light problem.

Donnie
You're right. As well creating a far better professional appearance and revamped instrument/switchgear layout, I wanted to make the whole thing more rigid, reduce the impact of the 'holes', fill in the ends, ignition switch within easy reach, fit a radio and so on.

Thanks for your interest.
Cheers
Mike

[macdonald.dm]

Re: Ignition light problem.

Just one more thing - I have to ask...

Do you STILL reach under the dash and fumble around your right knee for the ignition switch?

I know I do...

[gouldsborough7]

Re: Ignition light problem.

Donnie,
No, as I mentioned earlier, I fitted a new ignition switch on the dashboard itself, adjacent to the speedo. I wired this into the existing circuit, ending up with the old key in a permanent ON position, and in effect forgotten about. The new key does the entire job as before, except that I no longer have an automatic steering lock. If this really bothered me, I could grovel under the dash & remove the old key when leaving the car in a car park etc. However, the security of a Berli is not very good anyway, so what does a steering lock really do? Having got rid of the original large holes in the dash, I had to put an ignition switch within easy reach. The original location was daft anyway!

If you want the wiring diagram, I have it on file. The Ign Switch was from CBS at a cost I think of around £16 + p&p.
Cheers
Mike

[macdonald.dm]

Re: Ignition light problem.

Ah! Sorry Mike - I was being facetious!

I knew you had fitted a new dash-mounted ignition switch as I remember the posts! I've also done exactly the same as you, keeping the original one wired in as a steering lock.

What I meant was - do you STILL keep reaching under the dash instead of going for the new location?!

Sorry, I'll get my coat...

[gouldsborough7]

Re: Ignition light problem.

No problemo, I quickly got out of the habit of reaching under the dash.

What I have to concentrate on doing on cold starts is operating the 2 choke knobs correctly. The manual conversion kit (I fitted to the 3 litre Grannie carb) still required a prod of the accelerator as well as pulling out the choke knob. To cut a long story short, I fitted a second choke knob such that the left one only controls the choke flap, and the right one controls revs.

No prodding of accelerator is now necessary. Originally, the 'prodding' sometimes flooded the engine and spark-plugs had to come out to be dried as a consequence. The double choke-knob solves this entirely, but each time I do a cold start, I have to positively think of how much yanking of each knob is required. Definitely a good result overall though.

Cheers
Mike

[macdonald.dm]

Re: Ignition light problem.

Ha ha, you're doing better than me on the key front then.

2 choke cables, eh? Doing better than me there too...