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I have a new set of CV boots ready to fit to my Hunter prior to next MOT. The shafts are what Ford refer to as "Type B" but I think they are also known as Lobro type. As the shafts split at flanges at both ends with 6 Torx cap screws it looks as though these can "just" be undone and the shafts removed without disturbing the hubs, or even maybe without removing the wheels? Does anyone know for sure if this is true? Also will Blue Hylomar be ok to seal the joints on reassembly? Peter.
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Re: Drive shaft boots replacement query
Peter
You will find this an easy job which you can do without removing the wheels or disturbing the hubs. You will however need to raise the rear of the car quite high and support the trailing arm with a jack. I found that even by careful positioning the shaft only the 2 lower of the 6 screws could be loosened and removed at a time.
You will need a good quality Torx bit and several extension bars to do this as access is not good.You will also need a pair of circlip pliers to remove the clip holding the joint to the shaft.
As for sealing my advice is don't bother, as you will find it only gets mixed up with the grease and makes a right mess. It won't leak without but use Hylomar sparingly if you must. Don't forget to torque tighten to specified torque upon reassembly. -
Re: Drive shaft boots replacement query
Many thanks for the quick reply Peter. All much as I guessed then. As the rear shocks will support the trailing arm I guess that the jack is needed just to get the wheel free to rotate? You say get the rear quite high. Did you use ramps / blocks under the wheels or axle stands? If the latter where did you position them? The chasis looks pretty wide and slippery at the rear for a good safe location. I have some really heavy duty stands but the width across the top supports will not span the chassis without risk of crimping the edge seam. Peter.Comment
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Re: Drive shaft boots replacement query
I always use axle stands and a block of wood to spread the load across the chassis, positioned just in front of the trailing arm outer pivot. The jack is needed to compress the spring, which has the effect of straightening the drive shaft giving better access, and also as you say to rotate the wheel.
I thought about what I said yesterday about having access to the 2 lower screws and is not correct, you may be able to undo the 3 top ones with the drive shaft straight. You will then have to rotate the wheel to gain access to the other screws.
Peter
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Re: Drive shaft boots replacement query
Peter/All Marliners
Axle stands are a very good idea.
My daugther's Fiesta broke a front spring. I jacked it up using Ford's own Micky Mouse jack, and whilst trying to remove the spring from the upright the jack went over the front suspension dropped to the floor: I ended up with crushed finger and thumb trapped in the coil. I have never had to seriously shout for help before - and I would not want to again:
My advice to myself and anyone else is definitely use an axle stand next time.
MikeComment
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Re: Drive shaft boots replacement query
Well put mike, and I'm sorry to hear you had to learn the hard way.
I would like to add, that if anyone is not confident about taking adequate safety precautions before working under a car, then perhaps they shouldn't attempt it!
PeterComment
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Re: Drive shaft boots replacement query
Many thanks to all for the feedback. Will let you know progress in due course. Peter.Comment
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Re: Drive shaft boots replacement query
Well, all jacked up nice and high on axle stands, Torx bits and extension bars ready and guess what, nothing wrong with the CV boots! What the MOT man had seen last year was waxoyl on the outside of the boots that had dripped from the old rear shox that I had sprayed to try and stop them creaking! Doh :-O Still, spares on the shelf now for one day in the future methinks!
The good news is that the new GAZ rear shox that I did fit are brilliant! Plenty of damping and control but none of the choppiness that the old AVOs gave. Result after all! Peter.
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