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Hunter rear suspension - spruce-up

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  • Hunter rear suspension - spruce-up

    Hi Guys
    Thought I would spruce up the suspension appearance, as the original all-black appearance was beginning to look a bit shabby. I started at the front off-side and sanded off all rusty bits, and got it ready for painting.

    I had in stock a large tin of bituminous paint, sold by Wickes for metal and concrete painting. My original intention was to use Finnegans Smoothrite, but with fiddly shapes it can be a bit of a trial to get it on smooth. Also, if a tiny area is omitted, it does not look good to 'touch it in' a few hours later. As an experiment, I tried the bitumen paint in a small area, and it behaved and looked good. A second coat or touching-in can be done after half an hour without a problem. It is also fairly free of fumes, so no reaction from my respiratory area either.

    When I started to prep the rear end, I found the rear springs excessively rusty. The front ones were not at all bad, and the prep work only took a few minutes.

    To do the rear ones properly, I really need to take them off the car. Not sure at this moment the best way to go about this. If I jack up the car fairly high, take off the wheels, and remove the telescopic dampers, will this allow the suspension arms to drop down low enough to remove the springs. Any ideas would be appreciated please?

    On reflection, the rust on these springs is so bad, I am really wondering whether I should just chuck them away and buy new ones. Any suggestions as to a suitable source?

    Cheers
    Mike

  • #2
    Re: Hunter rear suspension - spruce-up

    You will need to have the car high enough off the ground to allow the swinging arms to hang down.
    If you disconnect the bottom of the shock absorbers you should beable to lower the swinging arm with a trolly jack and then the spring should come off. If they don't you will have to dismantle the hubs and remove your drivshafts.
    Springs form Ford dealers or someone like Demon Tweaks.

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    • #3
      Re: Hunter rear suspension - spruce-up

      Hi Derek
      As an experiment, I did jack the axle high in the air, removed the bottom bolt of the shock-absorber, and managed to get the swinging arm to go lower – but still no luck in getting the spring out! Don’t fancy dismantling the whole assembly. Had thoughts on getting a spring-compressor, to reduce its length, but might wait a while.

      In the meantime, I am de-rusting the front suspension and other nearby parts. Also, I took the plunge by removing the front bumper complete as I suspected there was some hidden rust between chrome half-bumpers and the black metal channel that holds everything together. Considering that the car was expensive, and factory-built, the black paint came off like pieces of paper. Lots of work now to get it back to A1 condition.

      Cheers
      Mike

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      • #4
        Re: Hunter rear suspension - spruce-up

        Hi Mike. Do you ever drive your car ??? Welcome to the clan of everlasting tweakers ;-). I jacked my Hunter up to fit new rear GAZ shocks and the springs just started to unseat when the wheels and shocks were off and the suspension jacks lowered a bit. You need axle stands quite high with some 4x2" wood under the rear of the chassis just in front of the rear suspension swing arm pivots. You may need to disconnect the rear brake flexible pipes too?

        The "paint" that is coming off in sheets is actually the much trumpeted powder coating! I have likewise removed sheets of the stuff from my Hunter front suspension and also down the side chassis rails. The beauty of Finnegans paint is that it is designed to go straight on over wire brushed rust. I use the semi matt as it is an exact match for the Marlin powder coat (and even the chassis paint on my old classic). The smoothrite it far too glossy and shows all the imperfections/ touch up bits. As the Finnegans paint "cures" after it dries it needs any second coat to be applied within 2 hours of the first, but I find the best technique is one really good first coat. Just put it on and spread it around i.e. don't try to spread it too thinly. After that time you need to rub it down to give a key for the next coat. I have found in the past that with time and cold weather bituminous paint becomes quite brittle. Frosts do a proper chassis paint that may well be more to your liking. Peter.

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        • #5
          Re: Hunter rear suspension - spruce-up

          Hi Peter
          Yes, now that I have retired, I do get out at least once a week in my Hunter. This usually comprises trips around the numerous lanes in my part of Hertfordshire, and running errands. Longer journeys are left to my Skoda Octavia. My wife prefers it that way as well!

          I did get the rear of the car quite high in the air, and disconnected the shock-absorber, but I think either the driveshaft or the geometry of the swinging arm itself restricted the arm going low enought to remove the spring. I did contemplate removing some or all of the bolts holding the swinging arm in place, but thought I would sort out the front end first before doing any more at the rear.

          As I mentioned above, a spring compressor might be the answer, in combination with the swinging arm being at its lowest position without the shock-absorber. I haven't got a spring compressor, so that's another area to investigate.

          Many thanks for your numerous contributions to my forum enquiries over the past few years.

          Cheers
          Mike

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