Removing rear shock absorbers/dampers

[gouldsborough7]

Hi guys
I recently had some repairs/beefing up of s/s silencer on my Hunter by my village garage (great guys). The proprietor invited me to inspect the work while it was up on the ramp. Having road-tested his handiwork, he suggested that the rear shock absorbers were a bit past their best - giving them some shoves upwards to demonstrate. They were no leaking but possibly a bit tired.

I don't think he was touting for business, but offered to do the replacements if I needed. I assured him that this was an easy-peasy job for yours truly, paid the bill and left.

The first problem was to identify what car the rear axle was intended for - most likely Sierra or Granada. Long-story-short, the dampers have eyes at both ends, and taking various measurements I passed this info on to several eBay suppliers. So far, only one has confirmed he is able to supply an exact match. The others showed misleading pictures with other mounting arrangements when push came to shove.

Before taking the plunge with the purchase, I thought I had better check that I could remove the old dampers. The bottom eye was obvious child's play, with a 17mm headed bolt & nut, and a 10mm shaft. The top eye disappears beneath the wing, sufficient to see the 'eye' at the top, but no space in which to insert socket spanner and rotate it. Inspection on the inside of the boot & car did not reveal any hidden securing bolts either.

So, thanks to Marlin this potential five minute job looks to be a major exercise! When assembled at the factory, did they bolt on the dampers first, then fit the big wing/running board assembly afterwards? If so, I will not be going down this route!

I could cut away some of the inner wing to access the bolts, but that is fairly drastic. Has anyone got a solution to this please?

Cheers
Mike

[dogoncrazy]

Re: Removing rear shock absorbers/dampers

Mike
Dampers are standard Sierra saloon[not estate as they have different fixing at the top] can be standard or adjustable as per Cosworth . I had my last set from Gaz [adjustables ]and they were i think about £100 a pair.
The top of the damper is secured to a carrier/bracket that is itself secured by 2 bolts, one is accessed through a hole provide in the rear tub above the wheel[there may be a rubber bung obscuring the head] the other if i remember correctly is behind the trim panel aft of the door.Removing these 2 bolts allows the damper to be removed with the carrier still attached to the top of the damper.
If still stuck contact me on 01332 753000 or e mail alison.hogg2 at ntlworld .com and leave your address and if you require i can send you images/photocopy from build manual

[gouldsborough7]

Re: Removing rear shock absorbers/dampers

Hi Alan
I would appreciate a few pics if you could oblige. I'll send you an e-mail as suggested.
Cheers
Mike

[Mike]

Re: Removing rear shock absorbers/dampers

Mike

I am still (STILL.....!!) building mine. I will try to attach shots of the fixing for the carrier on the inner wheel arch, as Alan has described.
This has brought to my attention the need to make replacement of the shockers easier. As you can see from my photo I would have had a problem removing the outer bolt, as its lack of central location means I can not get a socket on it. I will use a dremmel to carefully elongate the hole until a socket will fit.Also, it will mean cutting a hole in the inner wing cover to allow access.
Hope all goes well with the change.

PS If you look at Alan's recent reply to my Wheel Arch post, he suggests he has fitted standard after market dampers, and not noticed the difference compared to adjustable ones.
Regards
Mike

[Mike]

Re: Removing rear shock absorbers/dampers

Try again!
I have to say I am in the camp of "Would like a new and improved web site" : one which is much easier to use, and more forgiving. I can not remove a photo once selected

[Mike]

Re: Removing rear shock absorbers/dampers

Mike
I have an electronic copy of the build manual, but I have not been able to paste it on the site.
If you would like to call on 07968 835101 and give me your email, I can send you the relevant pages from the manual.
Mike

[gouldsborough7]

Re: Removing rear shock absorbers/dampers

Mike
I am planning to get standard dampers at a fraction of the cost of up-market adjustables. It will be a realitvely cheap experiment. I remember way back in my motoring career when I fitted adjustable SPAXs on all four corners of my Renault 16.

All of these early Renaults were renown for their forgiving suspension, (would be ideal on our current rubbish potholed roads) but they rolled alarmingly on corners. The SPAXs were a good mod then, but with the relatively solid springing on my Hunter, I doubt whether the rear end needs this amount of damping. The factory fitted GAZ on the front (as a part 2 to their assembly) - I've got the invoice. Must have been some sort of problem with the first owner.

One strange point with the securing of the carrier-bracket: the bolt in the boot is of 17mm spanner size, whereas that under the wing is only 10mm. The latter will take some removing as you mentioned. I know it is rusted up to a large extent.

Mike - will ring you as suggested.

Cheers
Mike

[greyV8pete]

Re: Removing rear shock absorbers/dampers

Hi Mike. I have just found the receipt for my rear GAZ shocks. Bought from Burton Power, their part No. GZGT5-2066 for Sierra Sapphire, Cosworth, XR4x4. price in Jan 09 was £42.51 each plus delivery. Best thing I ever fitted. Replaced the original Spax which were shot and too hard anyway. Useful to be able to adjust if you are carrying a load of luggage too! Bolt and nut heads of different sizes are handy if you only have one set of spanners! Peter.

[gouldsborough7]

Re: Removing rear shock absorbers/dampers

Hi Guys
I managed to remove the old shocks, with help from Mike & Alan. The main problem was the cunning way (and a blinking nuisance!) that the factory had totally camouflaged the bolt-head under the wing. No problem with the one in the boot, but under the wing work required some drilling and gouging of fibre-glass to reveal the bolt-head (having accurately measured where it must be). After that of course, removal of shocks only took a few minutes.

As a cheap experiment, I have fitted standard shockers, working on the basis that the old ones were 13 years old and must be below par. I bought the replacements at £15 for the pair + £8 postage!! This was on eBay, where companies show their price (£20 in the case) and then invite offers.

Just completed a shortish run around my neighbourhood and the new units work fine. If I subsequently find that they are not up to scratch, the experiment has not cost an arm and leg. Might try selling the old ones on eBay to reduce outlay even further!

Thanks again guys
Cheers
Mike