Core Plugs - Ford Pinto

[Tnick]

Can any one advise me where I can find the core plugs on a Pinto engine? I know there are the 2 on the side behind the exhaust manifold but 4 where provided in the kit I purchased. ? The Haynes manual only shows the side ones. I suspect they are on the back (gearbox end).

I've just had a ride home with the breakdown man after overheating - water seemed to be be dripping from the base of the bell housing.

If i'm right does anyone know if I can remove the gearbox leaving the engine in-situ and replace them?

Finally - any tips on how to replace them, I replaced the 2 on the side and one popped out 5 miles down the road - quite spectacular - I've fitted another one and it seems OK.

Regards

Nick

[danny_nelson]

Re: Core Plugs - Ford Pinto

Hi Nick,
You will struggle to remove the gearbox, unless the gearbox cross member has been modified to allow complete removal of the centre section. In the past I have replaced core plugs by starting them with a suitable dia wooden dowel, or even a socket of the right size ,when started then I have laid a flat piece of metal across the protruding core plug and
knocked it home with a hammer, striking the flat metal.
Danny.

[cameronfurnival]

Re: Core Plugs - Ford Pinto

I alwys use a thread sealer type compound - but some say you shouldnt - and tap them with the ball end of a ball pein hammer to expand them. Here's an article

[Tnick]

Re: Core Plugs - Ford Pinto

Thanks for the comments - A quick look under the car and the water is definitely coming from the slot at the bottom of the bellhousing. A look at the clutch section in the Haynes manual and there is a photo of the flywheel and clutch and just next to the flywheel a core plug!

From the same look it was obvious that the cross member would prevent the removal of the gearbox - so the engine needs to come forward and perhaps out, depends on how much space I can create.

Regards

Nick

[chris]

Re: Core Plugs - Ford Pinto

Hi Nick, having just done a clutch change on mine, this was the only sequence I found worked - unbolt & remove the prop-shaft, unbolt the gearbox from the engine and slide it as far back as you can (about 2 to 4 inches) remove the radiator and unbolt the engine mounts, using a crane (obviously) lift the engine, slide forward and lower to the floor (or take it out completely if you have the space) The reason for suggesting sliding the gearbox back, is that when you come to refit the engine after doing the core-plugs, it is a lot easier to slide the gearbox back onto a fitted engine than to force a swinging engine onto a bolted in gearbox.

This sounds a lot worse than it is, but I managed to do a full clutch change on my own in about 6 hours (first time I had done a job like that for 30 years!)

hope this helps