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Berlinetta build and restoration

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  • milliemarlin
    replied
    Re: Berlinetta build and restoration

    Ah, that makes perfect sense. Now that I re-read your append I can’t see why I thought otherwise.
    One other unease I have is your speedo sensor bracket. I have a similar setup on Millie. I made quite a substantial bracket out of steel but that affected the magnet pickup. I quickly remade a simple one in alloy. That works, but about once a year I have to adjust the gap as the bent alloy seems to relax. You might consider using a more substantial bracket possibly made of alloy or stainless. Perhaps contemplate some kind of adjustment. I’m not sure how accessible it is.
    Paul

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  • scott h
    replied
    Re: Berlinetta build and restoration

    The plastic fuel lines are proper fuel pipe as used in most production cars these days. The water pipe is an outer sheath for extra protection where the fuel lines loop down to the transmission tunnel.
    Didn't have time last night to get in the garage but should manage tonight, so fingers crossed!
    Last edited by scott h; 16-02-16, 09:38 AM.

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  • milliemarlin
    replied
    Re: Berlinetta build and restoration

    Hi Scott,
    You mentioned using plastic water pipe to connect the fuel lines. It’s not clear if that is a permanent or temporary measure. My slight concern is that you should use plastic that is designed to be used with fuel (marked Din74324 or Din73378). I believe that some plastics will allow petrol vapour to escape and can be a fire hazard.
    Hope this helps, Paul
    PS: I could not start Mark II the car I am building yesterday – No fuel in the tank (currently a jam jar).

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  • scott h
    replied
    Re: Berlinetta build and restoration

    Houston, we have a problem. I tried to fire up the engine last night but it didn't. Plus I have a fuel leak. Stay tuned.

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  • scott h
    replied
    Re: Berlinetta build and restoration

    I made a stainless tray to hold the battery, it bolts through the boot floor to the chassis.

    1411.jpg

    The original boot floor is in good condition so here it is refitted. You can see where the original battery was mounted in the middle of the boot, this time I thought if I mount it off to one side I would have more room in the boot.

    1416.jpg

    With the boot section placed in position you can see how the fuel hoses and battery are all at one side. With hind sight it may have been better to have the fuel return hose horizontal on the side of the tank and so not have it in the boot, but the breather hose needs to be there to get enough height to prevent spillage if the tank is filled to the neck. You can also see the original hole for the filler hose, which connected by a sharp 90 bend to the horizontal filler on the original tank, which made filling a slow job. The new position of the filler will be much less restrictive. I also cut a hole for access to the fuel gauge sender.

    1421.jpg

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  • scott h
    replied
    Re: Berlinetta build and restoration

    A while ago I bought new CV joints for the rear drive shafts but I left them off to allow access for fitting the fuel tank etc. Now I'm about to fit the boot floor and the battery so it is time to fit the drive shafts which is easier without the boot floor in place.

    1426.jpg

    1431.jpg

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  • scott h
    replied
    Re: Berlinetta build and restoration

    The fuel supply was next. After a bit of research to choose between copper or plastic fuel line I went for plastic, it seems more resistant to modern petrol. I am running a swirl pot in the engine bay which has a continuous supply from the tank and an overflow back to the tank. The two pipes are routed along the transmission tunnel, you can just see them in the earlier pic of the propshaft.

    I used a length of plastic water pipe, moulded to shape by heating, for protection of the fuel line where it loops down to the transmission tunnel. The return pipe fits on the top of the swirl pot and the supply fits on the top angled connection, but which fuel line is which? I used an air bed pump attached at the fuel tank end of each fuel line to find out.

    1396.jpg

    I used rubber fuel pipe to connect each plastic fuel line to the swirl pot.

    1406.jpg

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  • scott h
    replied
    Re: Berlinetta build and restoration

    Propshaft bolted in with magnets glued on and a new sensor for the original electronic speedo.

    1381.jpg

    As far as sorting out the engine wiring, I decided to connect everything up and see if the engine will run first, rather than extend and shorten loads of wires to get all the components such as the ECU in their final position. So the first thing to do was sort out the air intake. When I mounted the engine the height was dictated by the anti roll bar which runs under the sump. This resulted in the intake being close to the bonnet. I have wasted a lot of time and a bit of money trying to make the intake fit under the bonnet; First I bought an adapter and rubber hose and cobbled it together, but the hose kept kinking. Next I fabricated something from stainless pipe, but it was very restrictive and looked rough. So I had to bite the bullet and go for a bulge in the bonnet.

    This is the end result. The large chrome part is called a power cap and is commonly fitted to the Vauxhall engine to gain some extra horses, I am using it mainly to connect the pipe work to the engine and a wee increase in power would be a bonus.

    1386.jpg

    Here the wood shows the line of the bonnet with the intake being about an inch too high.

    1391.jpg

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  • scott h
    replied
    Re: Berlinetta build and restoration

    Hi Mike, I made sure that the center line of the engine and gearbox was still parallel to the center line of the chassis.

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  • Mike
    replied
    Re: Berlinetta build and restoration

    Off setting the the u/js is a good idea, but make sure the two flanges are still parallel to avoid causing vibration.

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  • scott h
    replied
    Re: Berlinetta build and restoration

    I had a propshaft made by Northwest Propshafts. http://www.northwestpropshafts.com/. I chose this company mainly because they had a stand at Stoneleigh in 2014 and were very enthusiastic when I spoke to them. I made this known to them when I called them to discuss having a prop made, the hope is that it will prove that having a stand at the show results in sales and so encourage them to return. I think that as kit car owners we should take every opportunity to help the few remaining shows to survive.

    To suit the Ford type 9 gearbox and Sierra diff they offered a prop with standard U/J's or heavy duty ones. The standard one is suitable for up to 175hp and the heavy duty one will handle 300hp. The prices are £115 and £145 respectively, this includes next day delivery but not the dreaded VAT. With my engine being rated at 150hp, but with tuning another 50hp is easily found, so I went for the heavy duty version.

    1371.jpg

    The U/J's are replaceable being held by circlips as opposed to staked. They also have grease nipples.

    1376.jpg

    With independent rear suspension where the diff is fixed to the chassis, it is important that the propshaft runs at a slight angle to provide some movement in the joints, to prevent premature wear. I had this in mind when I positioned the engine and gearbox, it sits 20mm to the nearside which provides clearance between the brake servo and the intake manifold, and helps with the aforementioned prop angle. It was a relief to find that the plan had worked out when I tried the prop on for the first time tonight.

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  • dcunn
    replied
    Re: Berlinetta build and restoration

    Indeed - what's your problem ? LoL

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  • scott h
    replied
    Re: Berlinetta build and restoration

    I keep telling myself don't panic it's only a couple of wires! Time to sort out the engine loom.

    1366.jpg

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  • scott h
    replied
    Re: Berlinetta build and restoration

    Cooling system pipework.

    The bottom radiator hose with in line fan switch. In the Vauxhall donor car this switch is fitted to the bottom corner of the radiator, so this position is close to the original.

    1321.jpg

    A mate welded the ally pipe at the top of the pic, with outlets for the heater and header tank.

    1326.jpg

    This is the original plastic pipe with the outlets in all the wrong places.

    1331.jpg

    Pipes to the heater through a valve to control the temperature.

    1336.jpg

    The other heater hose connects to the rear of the cylinder head.

    1341.jpg

    Heater hoses fitted through a removable panel in the heater box.

    1356.jpg

    Heater box in place.

    1361.jpg

    I decided to use molded bends rather than straight pipe bent to shape which would probably kink when it gets hot. However the down side of this is lots of joins with lots of hose clips which may look untidy.

    All the joins are made with ribbed inserts.

    1346.jpg

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  • scott h
    replied
    Re: Berlinetta build and restoration

    Cooling fan mounted.

    1306.jpg

    Using folded stainless brackets.

    1311.jpg

    1316.jpg

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