Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

tie-rod clearance

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • tie-rod clearance

    Hi all,

    What is the minimum / efficient clearance between the tie-rod end and the tyre wall?

    I thought I read a discussion before on the posts but can't seem to track it down.

    Thanks in advance for your responses.
    Brian

    Learning more about:
    June '73 Marina based Mk2 Roadster
    1800 TC; 4 speed gearbox; 4.55:1 differential with 4.5pcd (the rare one!)

    Another interest -www.somersetschoolsathletics.org.uk
    And another - 'Tractor Doctors' skittle team


  • #2
    Re: tie-rod clearance

    If you are considering wider than standard Marina tyres, the limiting factor if the distance between tyre wall and the top swivel, making the distance between tyre wall and tie rod irrelevant. Depending on the tyre/wheel combination, spacers may be needed. With your 4.5"PCD hubs, the choice of wheels is obviously much greater than the original Marina's Triumph based wheels.

    That is unless you have a different thought.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: tie-rod clearance

      Steve, thanks for your reply

      I have retained the same wheel diameter as was already on the car - 14" and have measured gaps repeatedly before purchasing 195/70 tyres to stretch out the gearing as far as possible.
      The previous (owner's) set up included a 31.5mm wheel spacer (on each front wheel!) giving a massive clearance to the suspension.
      With this taken out and now with wheels with a different offset I have clearance of about 15mm to the top swivel but only about 8mm clearance to the tie-rod. Hence my initial query.

      I'm thinking a 5mm spacer may be enough or more probably a 7mm rather than no spacer at all?
      Brian

      Learning more about:
      June '73 Marina based Mk2 Roadster
      1800 TC; 4 speed gearbox; 4.55:1 differential with 4.5pcd (the rare one!)

      Another interest -www.somersetschoolsathletics.org.uk
      And another - 'Tractor Doctors' skittle team

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: tie-rod clearance

        When I fitted 195 50 15s I added 5mm spacers to give just enough clearance. I recently changed to a different brand of tyre and the side wall stuck out a tiny bit more, so I've had to fit 10mm spacers. A half turn on the nut should keep the wheel on shouldn't it? :-)

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: tie-rod clearance

          Originally posted by cdow View Post
          When I fitted 195 50 15s I added 5mm spacers to give just enough clearance. I recently changed to a different brand of tyre and the side wall stuck out a tiny bit more, so I've had to fit 10mm spacers. A half turn on the nut should keep the wheel on shouldn't it? :-)
          That should be fine, Chris. Its surprising just how different tyre of allegedly the same profile can be. You only find out when you try and fit them!

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: tie-rod clearance

            Originally posted by stevejgreen View Post
            That should be fine, Chris. Its surprising just how different tyre of allegedly the same profile can be. You only find out when you try and fit them!
            I thought you were going to say you only find out when one falls off :-0

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: tie-rod clearance

              Wait till you snap a stud while cornering. It's surprising how fast you can stop.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: tie-rod clearance

                Hi All,


                I have now fitted 195/70/14 Nexen CP661 91T tyres. These were recommended by the local tyre dealer who fitted them at cost (free fitting and balance) – Oh, the benefits of haggling and having taught many of the employees!


                I have fitted 7mm spacers on the front and this gives me a good 12mm clearance to the nearest steering/suspension components. The clearance on the back is immense and all tyres are inside the outer vertical of the wings. I have debated in my own mind whether I need longer studs in the front but have decided they are not needed. (I certainly have multiple ‘half turns’ of each nut!)


                I have torqued the nuts to 50psi as detailed in one of the many articles I have gleaned. It is recommended that the van axle requires a slighter higher torque than the car.


                I initially set the tyre pressure to 1.5 bar (21.76psi). [I am working in ‘bar’ as the local dealer works in this and his pressure gauge has a large circular dial for accuracy.] However, during my first trip out I felt this was slightly too high so I have just reduced to 1.4 bar (20.3psi). There are many posts on the forum relating to tyre pressure with the majority using 22psi all-round, although some run as low as 18psi. The local dealer stated that 18-20psi is ‘about right’. It may be in a couple of days, sunny weather permitting after more drives, I have to return for another slight reduction.


                Certainly my first drive was smoother than before with improved gear ratios (a calculated improvement of 12%) with the engine not asking for 4th gear almost immediately and a more gradual transition from 1st to 2nd. Another benefit is the speedo is now displaying a more accurate reading.


                First impressions of the tyre change are certainly positive particularly as they suit the car aesthetically.
                Brian

                Learning more about:
                June '73 Marina based Mk2 Roadster
                1800 TC; 4 speed gearbox; 4.55:1 differential with 4.5pcd (the rare one!)

                Another interest -www.somersetschoolsathletics.org.uk
                And another - 'Tractor Doctors' skittle team

                Comment

                Working...
                X