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Plastic Suspension Bushes (Cortina0

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  • Plastic Suspension Bushes (Cortina0

    My Berlinetta has a mixture of suspension bushes fitted to the links in the back suspension.

    The lower links both have nylon/plastic bushes at each end. The upper links are original Ford type rubber bushes at both ends.

    The lower arm bushes do not have sleeves and bear directly on the bolts, The bolts can't be tightened fully because that would clamp the brackets to the bushes. The result of this is that the holes in the axle brackets and the bolts are badly worn. I propose to bore the bushes out to 16mm clearance and fit some 16mm od stainless steel sleeves.

    However, I am very concerned that the use of these solid bushes at both ends of the links causes the links to flex in torsion as the axle rises and falls at one side or the other. I accept the solid bushes 'stiffen' the suspension and provide a more responsive feel to the car but at the expense of introducing flex into a component not intended to flex, that is why the rubber bushes have a rotational ability to accommodate the rotation of the arm.

    I have read up on this and I am not the only one to have concerns about changing all the rubber bushes to solid plastic bushes. One solution I have come across which may be a good compromise, is to use plastic bushes on the car and the original Ford rubber type bushes on the axle.


    I have just stripped the front suspension and the upper inner bushes seem to be in good condition, the lower arm inner bushes may be deteriorating. The tie rod end bushes have disintegrated. They appear to have been some sort of spongy plastic which seems to have deteriorated to powder where light has fallen on the bushes, further in they are still recognisable. Perhaps UV light has attacked the plastic?

    For now I propose to make new Delrin or Polly lower bushes with SS sleeves, Probably leave the top inner link bushes as are for now. I will probably have to buy a set of plastic tie rod bushes because I don't know what material they are made from.

    I have noticed the tie rods are adjusted very differently maybe 20mm different relative to the end of the tie rod. I haven't measured the tie rods and can't access them right now, do tie rods come in different lengths, perhaps from different models? Perhaps one lower arm has been replaced complete with it's tie rod...

    The damper bolts have mostly broken off in situ. Every thing else just unscrewed. <vbg>

  • #2
    Re: Plastic Suspension Bushes (Cortina0

    The bushes on the rear of the Cortina/ kit car /with Cortina rear axle fitted, have been a subject of much discussion for many years. Probably since the day after the Mk111 hit the road. Many different views, standard Ford item one end after market up rated on the other, all changed to after market up rated, and any mix you can think of. So do what is right for you, I have my own opinion of what suits me best, and I have tried different combinations over the years. Also a panhard rod is good to stop any sideways movement, or of course any other method that you wish to use. When set up correctly the back end works well for a touring car.

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    • #3
      Re: Plastic Suspension Bushes (Cortina0

      Thanks for that info Danny. What is your preferred bushing, uprated all round the back axle?


      Is a Parnhard rod needed with the links? Will it not fight with the top links... I have completely missed the Cortina era, so it's all new to me. I went from MkIII Zodiac to Rover until my Mini rally days, then Vauxhall Astra to now. No Cortina!

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      • #4
        Re: Plastic Suspension Bushes (Cortina0

        I prefer a little movement, so I mix. Panhard rod ,again individual opinions, up to you. You must do what suits you. Most live axles on coil springs uses something to prevent excessive sideways movement. again dependant on what use the car is being built for, and again the builders personal opinion. What is right for one may not be for another.

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        • #5
          Re: Plastic Suspension Bushes (Cortina0

          Thanks Danny, just come in from a relaxing mug to hot chocolate reflecting on the days activities!

          "What is right for one may not be for another."

          Good point but with little experience of the Cortina suspension, I am hoping for a little guidance from those who have been there and done it! With or without the 'T shirt' ! LOL

          I am steadily plodding through the Berlinetta threads and found several very interesting ones, but non on rear suspension as yet.

          Once I have got to grips with the damage to the axle end lower brackets and got that side of things under control I will look at ways of creating and installing a Watts linkage or a Parnhard rod.

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          • #6
            Re: Plastic Suspension Bushes (Cortina0

            Hi Robert. In 1998 I replaced the weaker "English" axle (Cortina1600 or smaller) for an "Atlas" axle which is much stronger but heavier. I rebushed all bushes with superflex types. If you buy the set then there is a difference in compliance between the arm to chassis and the arm to axle bushes. Axial and shear loads seem to be catered for in the different mixtures of the compounds and design of the bushes, plus, all have stainless centre bushes which should not seize on to the attachment bolts as the old void type rubber bushes with their mild steel centres did. My car has handled well over the years and spirited attempts by various MoT inspectors have not found any wear or splitting of the bushes. ( MoT last Friday whizzo pass yippee). The bushes have covered about 20000 assorted miles so far. I have thought of fitting a Watts type linkage but the handling is OK without it. Having seen the wreckage of the old rubber type bushes I am quite content with the superflex type. I hope that this may have been of use to you. Good luck with your strip down.
            Last edited by Dane_Rescueman; 29-07-13, 08:49 PM. Reason: Spolling
            Marlin Berlinetta 2.1 Efi

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            • #7
              Re: Plastic Suspension Bushes (Cortina0

              Thank you Dane, all input welcome. I have the Atlas Axle, (I think!). Seems to me I have either VERY early bushes, i.e. prototype, or somebodies home made jobbies, They do not have sleeves, stainless or mild steel. I now have some suitable stainless sleeving but still have to bore the bushes out. Getting access to the lathe seems an issue at present, I may have to resort to cunning and subterfuge else the project will be held up.

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              • #8
                Re: Plastic Suspension Bushes (Cortina0

                Dane makes a good point about (grading) on the bushes he used. Superflex do this and use a colour system, but some do not, and so this is where the (mixing) may be required. I do remember seeing bushes with no sleeve but I decided against these at the time. These up grade bushes can add up in cost so over the years a lot of alternatives were available. You will be able to fine tune this later when you are on the road . In your search for info have you found anything on the fuel tank? Escort tank 8 gallon capacity, so some builders raised the boot floor to fit larger tank. Dave Hitchings (Sierra Berly V8) and retired chairman MOC designed a large capacity tank. Some members have used his design. You should be able to find ref to all these mods and decide if any of it may help you . To date while you have a (bare ) chassis ,the removable gearbox cross member seems to me to be the one to consider. All good fun, enjoy yourself .

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                • #9
                  Re: Plastic Suspension Bushes (Cortina0

                  The solid plastic bushes have to be sorted (sleeved) before I can re-fit the back axle. The lathe is 35 miles away, so it's a matter of synchronising with my buddy and getting over there. I will try to kill as may birds with the single stone as possible. A pillar drill would do, I must try to get one I think, I have always had one but my last one which was a really good drill with a geared head and a 3 MT drive had to be left out in the weather, it got water in the gearbox and frost burst it open.

                  Quote: "To date while you have a (bare ) chassis ,the removable gearbox cross member seems to me to be the one to consider."

                  Done!

                  Here you can keep up to date and help support club members who are currently building or renovating their cars.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Plastic Suspension Bushes (Cortina0

                    Hi all, the bolts through the suspension arms and bushes have to be torqued to a set number. I cannot see how this would work without the metal bush at the centre of the rubber or synthetic bushes. I think the mounting flange would just squeeze in against the rubber. I would always use metal bush both the rubber and synthetic types. Have I missed something Danny? I came across a similar snag many years ago when I rebushed the front Cortina suspension rods; where they fix to the lower front suspension. I had missed the little crush bushes out of the assembly. I could tighten all I wanted but would have squeezed out the new nylotron bushes and destroyed them. Twit!
                    Marlin Berlinetta 2.1 Efi

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                    • #11
                      Re: Plastic Suspension Bushes (Cortina0

                      Hi Dane, everything you say is correct you are spot on, but these nylon type thingys were available with no metal bush . I decided against them after reasoning along the same lines as yourself. You never know where they came from, could well have been a batch of seconds that never got to have the sleeve fitted by some manufacturer, and appeared on a traders stall.!! I came across a trader selling MOC badge bar badges at a show, he had 5 and they were seconds from the factory at Leics. Roberts bushes may be home made , never can tell, but as you say they are no good.

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                      • #12
                        Re: Plastic Suspension Bushes (Cortina0

                        Have overcome the need for a lathe.

                        I had a dig through my drills and have come up with a 5/8" blacksmiths drill which is 0.27 mm smaller than my nominal 16mm o/d stock Stainless tube which I intend to use to sleeve the bushes.

                        I took a short piece of the tube and welded a piece of 12mm rod inside so I could drive it with my drill. I made two small leading edge cuts at the end of the tube to ream or broach out the remaining 0.27mm of plastic to give me a snug sliding fit. It has worked well, great care being needed to keep the drill centred and in line with the bushes, it seemed to follow the original bore well enough.

                        Screen Shot 2013-07-31 at 00.07.21.jpg

                        You can see the cutting teeth of my improvised rotary broach and the length of Stainless stock tube slid into the bushings. I have done one link, one to do.

                        Screen Shot 2013-07-31 at 00.04.16.jpg
                        Last edited by Robert in Cumbria; 30-07-13, 11:24 PM. Reason: Edit text.

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