Electric windows - sliding up/down rattles on Hunter

[gouldsborough7]

After 16 years it is not surprising that the rubber in the channels that hold the glass in place (driver's side) has worn away and needs replacing. Consequently, the glass rattles in the channel (over the keyhole) and is a bit annoying. Has anyone got any quick-fix ideas to remedy this? I was thinking of getting a length of rubber/plastic channel from say Woolies, and somehow sticking it in place.

Cheers
Mike

[chris_cussen]

Re: Electric windows - sliding up/down rattles on Hunter

Hi Mike,

When I built my cabrio I got u-section channelling from Woolies, so it will do the job.

Chris

[greyV8pete]

Re: Electric windows - sliding up/down rattles on Hunter

Phoenix Supplies have a good range of trim. I have used them a lot. Very helpful people. If you cut an inch off your seal and mail it to them they will tell you if they have anything matching. Shouldn't be a problem with "our" cars. Links below. Peter.

http://www.phoenixtrim.co.uk/Portals/Phoenix/PDF%20Files/Window%20Filler%20insets/Window%20Channel%202012.pdf

http://www.phoenixtrim.co.uk/Home/tabid/2736/Default.aspx

[Mike]

Re: Electric windows - sliding up/down rattles on Hunter

Hi Mike

Woolies certainly sell U channel, but be careful which you get.

I bought their plush furry-lined guide, but found it made my electric window motors really struggle to wind the windows up and down, as it pinched the glass slightly too much.
In the end I replaced it with their basic rubber only U channel and it was immediately much better - though I still have it on my "To do" list to put a bit of padding behind it at the rear in the aluminium channel as it is not as deep as the plush furry channel.

Mike

[gouldsborough7]

Re: Electric windows - sliding up/down rattles on Hunter

Thanks Guys
I am not over-keen to dismantle the door panel just to get at the metal channel from below. From experience, the various plastic or metal attachment fittings always break, and the panel never goes back very well.

If I buy the appropriate size of U channel (a slight problem from the start because I don't have a sample to offer the suppliers - I'll do some careful measuring), how do you suggest I secure it in place - smother the back of it with say Araldite and push it down between the glass and metal channel? Before doing this, in preparation I guess I will push a long thin screwdriver down the gap to remove the shreds of old U channel. Possibly, once the U channel is in place, I'll use the same long thin screwdriver between the U & metal channels.

Cheers
Mike

[Mike]

Re: Electric windows - sliding up/down rattles on Hunter

Thanks Guys
I am not over-keen to dismantle the door panel just to get at the metal channel from below. From experience, the various plastic or metal attachment fittings always break, and the panel never goes back very well.

If I buy the appropriate size of U channel (a slight problem from the start because I don't have a sample to offer the suppliers - I'll do some careful measuring), how do you suggest I secure it in place - smother the back of it with say Araldite and push it down between the glass and metal channel? Before doing this, in preparation I guess I will push a long thin screwdriver down the gap to remove the shreds of old U channel. Possibly, once the U channel is in place, I'll use the same long thin screwdriver between the U & metal channels.

Cheers
Mike

Hi Mike

I think you will find it difficult/impossible to try and slide the rubber channel all the way down the aluminium channel.
But the ggod news is you should not have to glue it in place either, so you can try to do as you propose with it dry, and see how you get on.

Good luck!

Mike

[greyV8pete]

Re: Electric windows - sliding up/down rattles on Hunter

Thanks Guys
I am not over-keen to dismantle the door panel just to get at the metal channel from below. From experience, the various plastic or metal attachment fittings always break, and the panel never goes back very well.

Cheers
Mike

Removing the door panels is quite easy. If you undo the 2 (or is it 3?) cross head screws and unscrew the two screws that secure the door pull handle, you can then slide a narrow paint scraper or similar between the door panel and the metal door frame. Carefully prise the door panel off and the plastic bungs just pull out. Start at the bottom and work up each side until they are all free. The panel has a lip along the top edge that hooks over the top of the door frame, so if you lift the panel it will just lift off. There is a bowden cable between the lock and the operating lever so this allows the panel to be lifted to one side. When replacing the panel locate the top lip over the door frame then a smart thump with the side of your fist will pop the plastic bungs back in place. Simples! Peter.

[gouldsborough7]

Re: Electric windows - sliding up/down rattles on Hunter

Hi Guys
I ordered a metre of rubber channel from Woolies, having given them accurate measurements to avoid getting the wrong type.........You've guessed it! What they sent me matched the measurements OK but was too chunky and dense to do the job! By this time I had taken off the door trim, and I was able to cut an inch or so off the old channel, and sent it to Woolies at the same time as returning the useless rubber channel. To give them credit, they quickly swapped it over for a softer design that fitted better.

Once I had fitted the rubber channel, it gripped the window with too much friction and gave the motor a hard time. Then I reduced the length of channel to a few smaller lengths and glued them in place with epoxy resin glue. The poor old motor still has to work hard, but I have alleviated its plight by smearing Vaseline in the groove between rubber and glass. It's still not ideal, but I have stopped the rattles!

On another associated issue, when operating the up/down function of the motor the whole compartment within the door gets very strained and distorted. I think it used to do this before, but the door trim disguised the extent to which the whole assembly was strained. I've oiled and greased all moving parts, but this makes for no real improvement. I've put it down to a poor original design. Has anyone got any comments on this please?

cheers
Mike

[davidmartin720]

Re: Electric windows - sliding up/down rattles on Hunter

I had a Volvo 360 with electric front windows, even though it was serviced by Volvo both window motors gave up the ghost. There was too much strain on the motor, as the channels had never been lubricated, I was told silicone spray or gel is the best lubricant. Cheaper than new electric motors!!!!!!!!!!!! David.

[greyV8pete]

Re: Electric windows - sliding up/down rattles on Hunter

Hi Guys
................................ On another associated issue, when operating the up/down function of the motor the whole compartment within the door gets very strained and distorted. I think it used to do this before, but the door trim disguised the extent to which the whole assembly was strained. I've oiled and greased all moving parts, but this makes for no real improvement. I've put it down to a poor original design. Has anyone got any comments on this please?

cheers
Mike

My Hunter doesn't have any cut out switches when the window is at the limits of its travel (both up and down). I guess that's the way it was "designed" when the Ford bits were fitted by Marlin. I have to judge when to release the switch or the scissor mechanism does distort. My motors have coped so far but I admit they do work hard. I have considered fitting micro switches but so far it's still on my "to do" list!

Just had a thought. Do all the Hunters have the same thickness of glass? Peter.

[chris_cussen]

Re: Electric windows - sliding up/down rattles on Hunter

Dunno about the thickness glass, but motors stalling at the end of their travel is a design feature!

[Mike]

Re: Electric windows - sliding up/down rattles on Hunter

Hi Guys
I ordered a metre of rubber channel from Woolies, having given them accurate measurements to avoid getting the wrong type.........You've guessed it! What they sent me matched the measurements OK but was too chunky and dense to do the job! By this time I had taken off the door trim, and I was able to cut an inch or so off the old channel, and sent it to Woolies at the same time as returning the useless rubber channel. To give them credit, they quickly swapped it over for a softer design that fitted better.

Once I had fitted the rubber channel, it gripped the window with too much friction and gave the motor a hard time. Then I reduced the length of channel to a few smaller lengths and glued them in place with epoxy resin glue. The poor old motor still has to work hard, but I have alleviated its plight by smearing Vaseline in the groove between rubber and glass. It's still not ideal, but I have stopped the rattles!

On another associated issue, when operating the up/down function of the motor the whole compartment within the door gets very strained and distorted. I think it used to do this before, but the door trim disguised the extent to which the whole assembly was strained. I've oiled and greased all moving parts, but this makes for no real improvement. I've put it down to a poor original design. Has anyone got any comments on this please?

cheers
Mike

Mike

The distortion is coming from the motor being put under too much strain: "every action has a reaction" - the excessive force generated by the motor to push the window up is resisted by the door panel which twists and distorts.

(If you want proof, try putting a 1" block of wood between the top of the window and the roof, forcing the window mechanism to stop before the motor has reaches its stop pad, and watch the door panel distort alarmingly. Then lower the window, and it will immediately return to shape. It is the action of the motor on the panel causing the distortion.

This is exactly what I warned you of in post #4! - you need to fit a rubber channel which does not grip the window tightly. Have you tried using the original Sierra U channel?

As an additional motivation to change you current solution, I would suggest the gaps you have left between the pieces of channel around the window will let rain water enter your car on any reasonable journey?

[Mike]

Re: Electric windows - sliding up/down rattles on Hunter

Dunno about the thickness glass, but motors stalling at the end of their travel is a design feature!

The Sierra motor is designed to rotate to a stop in the winder mechanism, and should not rely on the glass hitting the roof structure to make it stop - if you allow it to do this you will get distortion of the mounting panel.

The window travel in a Cabrio/Hunter is much less than in the donor Sierra, so it is necessary to fit a new stop in the "Up" position. This can be done in a number of ways. I chose to weld a dummy arm in mine at the point I want the motor to stop pushing, and used it against the standard Sierra stops - two pieces of plastic (seen here in green and white) which are trapped in place behind the centre plate inside the arc.

.

An alternative solution is to adopt Simon Gregory's approach, and bolt in a second standard Sierra stop:



Without the additional stop the motor will continue to try to wind the window after it has met the frame, and then as it can not force the window up further it forces the motor to try to twist on the mounting panel.

You need to work out the top and bottom positions of your window, and then make your stops control the movement to achieve them.