Broke Down!

[andyf]

James and I decided to take the Marlin for a run down to the White Hart classic car meeting. We started off well but as we slowed down for the roundabout she started popping and banging, by the time we got to the White Hart she wouldn't idle properly either. Anyway we parked up and went for a stroll around the cars in the car park, there was a good selection, a couple of Healey 3000s, a Jenson Interceptor numerous TR4s and TR6s and a Robin Hood kit car as well. Then we set off for home, she still wouldn't tick over but would run ok at higher revs. So we limped home, just!

When we got back I stripped down the carb because I suspected some dirt may have got in, put it all back together and started her up but it was no different she would run on throttle but no idle. Then I took a look at the points, the cap and rota arm are like new, I must have replaced them shortly before laying her up but the points were looking very pitted so I attempted to clean them up with a nail board but now she won't start at all! I suspect that the condenser has failed which is why the points are so badly pitted. I have a Powerspark ignition kit so I'll try fitting that to see if it fixes the problem...

[andyf]

Re: Broke Down!

Ok, so I've fitted the powerspark ignition kit and she starts and runs again but still no joy with tick over, runs fine on throttle but as soon as you let go nothing, it just stalls I think I'll have to take the idle jet out and give it a clean. If that doesn't work I may take it off and give it a strip down and a proper clean.

[stevejgreen]

Re: Broke Down!

Electronic ignition of almost any make can transform the performance of an engine. Misfiring can be tedious to track down, not just the LT but HT and then fuel/carburation. At least you got home under your own steam, without the ignomy of a tow truck.

[andyf]

Re: Broke Down!

I just found the idle ject and have blown if out with compressed air so I'll give it another test tomorrow night. I also pulled the plugs and they all look good, a nice light deposit no sooting or oiling up so that's a good thing.

[andyf]

Re: Broke Down!

Just noticed that the oil breather pipe from the PCV valve to the inlet manifold is perished and cracked... maybe I'll change that next... Does anyone know where I can get the Ford part from? I've just bought some straight hose on ebay but I think it will kink given where it has to fit.

[Alan c]

Re: Broke Down!

I had the same problem a few months ago (may still have)

I replaced coil (as they can breakdown when hot and its a cheep fix - I changed HT leads just for good measure). It seemed to fix it.

Then it came back next run out, as you describe, so started to pull of leads one a time when running and found number 3 plug made no difference. Took out plug 3 and cleaned it and problem went away and still Ok after 30 miles. So need to figure out why - could be the plug and will change them for sure. May be auto choke sticking and fouling plugs and so happens number 3 goes first as they are sooty.

[dbazdavies]

Re: Broke Down!

Re coils make sure you wire them up the right way or they will burn out the coil...

whatever the earth of the car is - neg or pos -then this side if the coil goes to the dizzy !!! - lots of older cars are pos earth !!!

[andyf]

Re: Broke Down!

It was the breather pipe that was the problem. I've just fitted a replacement and she starts and ticks over just fine, even when warm. Now all I've got to do is stop the petrol leaking from the union on the input to the petrol pump. I keep tightening it up but the petrol's still finding its way out!

[stevejgreen]

Re: Broke Down!

How is this for a bodge repair, assuming you believe it. here or there

[andyf]

Re: Broke Down!

Now I'm regretting my decision to buy a cheep replica of a facet solid state pump, the bl**dy thing is leaking petrol from the input union! Any ideas on how I can seal it, other than replacing the pump with a genuine facet pump, which I may do!

[b_caswell]

Re: Broke Down!

Most of the ones I can see on various sites have black plastic screw in unions. So un screw then use PTFE tape or Permatex Hymolar sparingly on the threads are you sure its the union on the pump and not the fuel line to union that's possibly over tightened?

[scott h]

Re: Broke Down!

Try PTFE tape on the threads.
( Edit. Never saw Bens reply as it was on the next page. Great minds think alike!)

[stevejgreen]

Re: Broke Down!

Try PTFE tape on the threads.
( Edit. Never saw Bens reply as it was on the next page. Great minds think alike!)

There is a tendency to apply far too much PTFE tape than is really required to create a seal. With plastic parts that deform or crack under excess pressure, Hylomar liquid is preferable.

[andyf]

Re: Broke Down!

This one has a brass filter that screws into the pump and it's leaking out between it and the pump. I've taken it off the car and tightened it up FT, refitted it and now I just need to make good the wiring and then I can test it. It's strange because the ordinary union that screws into the top of the pump has a normal thread whereas the filter has a tapered thread, it's actually visibly tapered. If that doesn't work I'll try fitting it up with the second straight union that was supplied without the filter.

[cameronfurnival]

Re: Broke Down!

these pumps always need a seal - ptfe is fine as long as you dont cover the orifice with it and wrap it the right way round so it doesnt unwrap when you tighten it .