First trip out...

[David]

Re: First trip out...

So, I'll close this thread as the starting issues are all sorted. Need a tune to timing and carbs as well as some replacement parts.

[David]

Re: First trip out...

You may wish to keep in mind that coils for electronic ignition are completely different to a standard points type ignition.
Points type coils will work on an electronic system, but poorly.

Thanks Phil. I ordered the coil with the ignition module so presumably I got the correct type, but must admit I didn't specify a matching unit!

[philcoyle]

Re: First trip out...

You may wish to keep in mind that coils for electronic ignition are completely different to a standard points type ignition.
Points type coils will work on an electronic system, but poorly.

[David]

Re: First trip out...

There is an interesting article here or there that explains the working of the ignition coil, and though it is specifically MGA the same principles apply.

Solid state/electronic ignitions work primarily by producing a cleaner more powerful switching than the old points systems, this generates a much more abrupt change in voltage in the primary and secondary coils. There is always the outside possibility that you already had a ageing ignition coil, and this more abrupt switching, has found a weak spot in the coil windings that may not be detectable with an ordinary ohm meter, as the coil can generate well in excess of 1000V, enough to jump tiny breaks in the insulation.

Many modern electronic devices, though I can't be specific about a Powerspark, are designed with polarity or incorrect wiring safety features. Often these are added in order to minimise the cost of running a customer help desk and returns departments than for the more obvious reason, the cost of the extra circuitry being minimal during manufacture.

I went for a new coil at the same time.

[stevejgreen]

Re: First trip out...

There is an interesting article here or there that explains the working of the ignition coil, and though it is specifically MGA the same principles apply.

Solid state/electronic ignitions work primarily by producing a cleaner more powerful switching than the old points systems, this generates a much more abrupt change in voltage in the primary and secondary coils. There is always the outside possibility that you already had a ageing ignition coil, and this more abrupt switching, has found a weak spot in the coil windings that may not be detectable with an ordinary ohm meter, as the coil can generate well in excess of 1000V, enough to jump tiny breaks in the insulation.

Many modern electronic devices, though I can't be specific about a Powerspark, are designed with polarity or incorrect wiring safety features. Often these are added in order to minimise the cost of running a customer help desk and returns departments than for the more obvious reason, the cost of the extra circuitry being minimal during manufacture.

[David]

Re: First trip out...

Perhaps someone used the Morris Minor wiring diagram for a positive earth car if your car is negative earth then the live feed should go to the + or sw connection. Cant comment on the power spark but it wont like being wired up backwards. I hope it hasnt gone pop!

No, the Powerspark is wired up correctly, just the ignition to coil feed on the wrong coil terminal.

[b_caswell]

Re: First trip out...

Perhaps someone used the Morris Minor wiring diagram for a positive earth car if your car is negative earth then the live feed should go to the + or sw connection. Cant comment on the power spark but it wont like being wired up backwards. I hope it hasnt gone pop!

[David]

Re: First trip out...

So, I fitted the Powerspark module today and guess what no spark now. I'll sort it tomorrow but meanwhile I noticed that the coil appeared to have the wire from the ignition plugged onto the negative terminal of the coil. The wire diagram(s) confirm that it should be on the positive terminal but just posting here to double check with you guys

[David]

Re: First trip out...

Well the very rough idle has been mostly cured by putting some oil in the Stromberg dashpots!

Still not starting easily, but more success with the bonnet off and I can see the cables are fouling on it so there's a clue. Will get the new coil and Powerspark on this weekend along with a clean and gap on the plugs.

It's running very rich, but then the air filters are black, will whip those off at the weekend and also give the carbs a good clean and adjust.

I'm beginning to realise that the last owner is probably a very good cabinet maker

[David]

Re: First trip out...

Thats an earlier type ignition switch with only 3 positions so no problem there, had to dig out an old Morris Minor manual to check the wiring.

That's good to know, thanks Ben.

[b_caswell]

Re: First trip out...

Thats an earlier type ignition switch with only 3 positions so no problem there, had to dig out an old Morris Minor manual to check the wiring.

[David]

Re: First trip out...

With the starting if it only catches just as you let go of the key check the ignition switch is wired correctly, it is quite easy to have the ignition fed from the aux (4) position which is not live when you are cranking the engine.It should be connected to (2)

So I got a photo of the back of the ignition switch, look's OK to me. (1) is the red/white, (2) is the brown and a red, (3) is three white cables.

David.

[b_caswell]

Re: First trip out...

Normally the voltage for the coil is punched in to the bottom of the coil on triumph parts. Unless the wiring is from a late Mk3 GT6 it should not have a ballast resistor.
12v coil has a white feed and 6v coil a white and yellow feed.
First thing I would go for is new plugs, points and a good quality condenser.
If the starter motor is lazy you could be struggling for air speed through the carbs. And use 97 octane fuel. Check the diaphragms in both carbs and also the emission valve.

[greyV8pete]

Re: First trip out...

I do recall seeing what could be what you describe attached to the coil and bolded to the engine, looks a bit like a condenser or capacitor...

That sounds like a condensor (supressor) to stop radio interference.

If added as an aftermarket unit the ballast resistor is usually a ceramic looking block. Link below shows typical unit:

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=030.009

That said Ford, for example, used a resistance wire in the wiring loom so it is not always easy to spot it.

Check the resistance of the primary winding of the coil.

This link is for a coil for ballast resistor - Primary winding resistance 1.5 ohms:

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/98

This link is for a coil to be used without a ballast resistor - primary winding resistance 3.0 ohms:

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/97/category/21

Hope this helps. Peter.

[David]

Re: First trip out...

With a ballast set up the starting link only works when the starter is activated. After the starter key is released the feed is through the ballast resistor. So if the starting link is broken it will give the symptoms that you describe.

Check what coil you have. If it says use with ballast resistor then the above is valid.

Peter.

I do recall seeing what could be what you describe attached to the coil and bolded to the engine, looks a bit like a condenser or capacitor...