First trip out...

[David]

The car has some issues starting, cold or hot but managed a 4 mile round trip to the local transport cafe for lunch with a mate today. Will order pointless ignition(Powerspark?), leads, plugs and coil etc this weekend along with a timing check and an air filter change and carb clean, that should fix it up.

[stevejgreen]

Re: First trip out...

There is no such thing as pointless electronic ignition. Any form of electronic ignition is worth the effort. If buying 'cheap' it's worth keeping the old parts, condenser, points etc. + the necessary tools, just in case!
Poor starting might be an issue with old ethanol, unleaded fuel, worth emptying the fuel tank if it has stood for a while before spending unnecessary cash.

[b_caswell]

Re: First trip out...

With the starting if it only catches just as you let go of the key check the ignition switch is wired correctly, it is quite easy to have the ignition fed from the aux (4) position which is not live when you are cranking the engine.It should be connected to (2)

[greyV8pete]

Re: First trip out...

With the starting if it only catches just as you let go of the key check the ignition switch is wired correctly, it is quite easy to have the ignition fed from the aux (4) position which is not live when you are cranking the engine.It should be connected to (2)

Or is it designed with a ballast resistor and the "starting" link wire is missing / disconnected? Peter.

[David]

Re: First trip out...

There is no such thing as pointless electronic ignition. Any form of electronic ignition is worth the effort. If buying 'cheap' it's worth keeping the old parts, condenser, points etc. + the necessary tools, just in case!
Poor starting might be an issue with old ethanol, unleaded fuel, worth emptying the fuel tank if it has stood for a while before spending unnecessary cash.

Thanks Steve, I meant the in distributor type that replaces the points when I said pointless. I hadn't considered the fuel because the car has been in continual use.

[David]

Re: First trip out...

With the starting if it only catches just as you let go of the key check the ignition switch is wired correctly, it is quite easy to have the ignition fed from the aux (4) position which is not live when you are cranking the engine.It should be connected to (2)

Thanks Ben, I'll check that.

[David]

Re: First trip out...

Or is it designed with a ballast resistor and the "starting" link wire is missing / disconnected? Peter.

It does start, so presumably it's not this.

[Nigel c]

Re: First trip out...

Poor starting might be an issue with old ethanol, unleaded fuel, worth emptying the fuel tank if it has stood for a while before spending unnecessary cash.

I've had fuel go so bad that I've had the empty the tank and take the top off the carbs and get the fuel out of the float bowl to get it started.

[greyV8pete]

Re: First trip out...

It does start, so presumably it's not this.

With a ballast set up the starting link only works when the starter is activated. After the starter key is released the feed is through the ballast resistor. So if the starting link is broken it will give the symptoms that you describe.

Check what coil you have. If it says use with ballast resistor then the above is valid.

Peter.

[dbazdavies]

Re: First trip out...

Fuel in cars from America if its left ,turns to a black treacle slim - to clean put in lots of washing up liquid and stir for a long time and power wash it out - warning there will be loads of suds !!!!

[David]

Re: First trip out...

With a ballast set up the starting link only works when the starter is activated. After the starter key is released the feed is through the ballast resistor. So if the starting link is broken it will give the symptoms that you describe.

Check what coil you have. If it says use with ballast resistor then the above is valid.

Peter.

I do recall seeing what could be what you describe attached to the coil and bolded to the engine, looks a bit like a condenser or capacitor...

[greyV8pete]

Re: First trip out...

I do recall seeing what could be what you describe attached to the coil and bolded to the engine, looks a bit like a condenser or capacitor...

That sounds like a condensor (supressor) to stop radio interference.

If added as an aftermarket unit the ballast resistor is usually a ceramic looking block. Link below shows typical unit:

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=030.009

That said Ford, for example, used a resistance wire in the wiring loom so it is not always easy to spot it.

Check the resistance of the primary winding of the coil.

This link is for a coil for ballast resistor - Primary winding resistance 1.5 ohms:

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/98

This link is for a coil to be used without a ballast resistor - primary winding resistance 3.0 ohms:

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/97/category/21

Hope this helps. Peter.

[b_caswell]

Re: First trip out...

Normally the voltage for the coil is punched in to the bottom of the coil on triumph parts. Unless the wiring is from a late Mk3 GT6 it should not have a ballast resistor.
12v coil has a white feed and 6v coil a white and yellow feed.
First thing I would go for is new plugs, points and a good quality condenser.
If the starter motor is lazy you could be struggling for air speed through the carbs. And use 97 octane fuel. Check the diaphragms in both carbs and also the emission valve.

[David]

Re: First trip out...

With the starting if it only catches just as you let go of the key check the ignition switch is wired correctly, it is quite easy to have the ignition fed from the aux (4) position which is not live when you are cranking the engine.It should be connected to (2)

So I got a photo of the back of the ignition switch, look's OK to me. (1) is the red/white, (2) is the brown and a red, (3) is three white cables.

David.

[b_caswell]

Re: First trip out...

Thats an earlier type ignition switch with only 3 positions so no problem there, had to dig out an old Morris Minor manual to check the wiring.