Handbrake Help

[stevejgreen]

Re: Handbrake Help

FWIW this was Q67 after drum removed, as found.

That's a standard manual adjuster.

[stevejgreen]

Re: Handbrake Help

Thanks guys, lots to go with. The PO built up the brakes some time ago I believe and the car has never been on the road so who knows if the brake set up is correct. I have posted a back view of the back plate but it does look the same as my workshop manual, although the brake pipes may need swapping over.
Checking the manual I would agree that the return spring is in the wrong hole.
I will get the measuring tape out and check out all the other things suggested.[ATTACH]6952[/ATTACH]

The hydraulics should be arranged so that the flow of fluid on braking, is bottom to top, avoiding air locks.

[stevejgreen]

Re: Handbrake Help

The slave cylinder is designed to slide in the backplate to self centre. So that as the autoadjuster unwinds and the brake pads wear, equal pressure is applied on both front and rear pads.

The auto adjusters were always problematical, the use of any grease or lubricant, including leaks of brake fluid, allows brake dust and road dirt to accumulate on the very parts you intended to lubricate.

I have yet to find a set of auto adjusters that worked six months after full maintenance.

It might be worth chatting on the Marina Owners Forum, FastMarina, they may be able to offer some suggestions.

[greyV8pete]

Re: Handbrake Help

As Steve says, have you checked that the whole wheel cylinder moves freely in the slot in the back plate? If not disconnect the brake pipes for ease of working, peel back the rubber boot and remove the two opposing U-clips to remove the cylinder. Clean thoroughly and coat liberally with copaslip before replacing the U-clips.

Also check that the ratchet adjusters are on the correct side of the axle! If they have been swapped over by mistake the thin blade lever won’t catch behind the teeth properly so the adjuster won’t rotate! From memory my Cortina ones had the same internal RH thread, it was just the ratchet teeth that faced in opposite directions. Maybe worth checking that they are different too and that someone hasn’t previously fitted two of the same!

Your ratchet adjuster looks to be fully “in”. I would expect it to be out a bit more, even with new shoes. Make sure that the threads inside the ratchet adjuster are clean, free and again coat liberally inside with copaslip.

Yes the spring next to the wheel cylinder definitely needs to be in the outer hole. Also that spring should be the one with the plain straight bit in the centre. The other “plain” spring should be next to the fixed location post on the back plate. Make sure that the springs aren’t tired and check that they haven’t been over stretched by incorrect fitting practice. When removed the coils of the springs should all be touching. If available I would always replace them for positive pull off when the brakes are released. Peter.

[Blue Marlin]

Re: Handbrake Help

As Steve says, have you checked that the whole wheel cylinder moves freely in the slot in the back plate? If not disconnect the brake pipes for ease of working, peel back the rubber boot and remove the two opposing U-clips to remove the cylinder. Clean thoroughly and coat liberally with copaslip before replacing the U-clips.

Also check that the ratchet adjusters are on the correct side of the axle! If they have been swapped over by mistake the thin blade lever won’t catch behind the teeth properly so the adjuster won’t rotate! From memory my Cortina ones had the same internal RH thread, it was just the ratchet teeth that faced in opposite directions. Maybe worth checking that they are different too and that someone hasn’t previously fitted two of the same!

Your ratchet adjuster looks to be fully “in”. I would expect it to be out a bit more, even with new shoes. Make sure that the threads inside the ratchet adjuster are clean, free and again coat liberally inside with copaslip.

Yes the spring next to the wheel cylinder definitely needs to be in the outer hole. Also that spring should be the one with the plain straight bit in the centre. The other “plain” spring should be next to the fixed location post on the back plate. Make sure that the springs aren’t tired and check that they haven’t been over stretched by incorrect fitting practice. When removed the coils of the springs should all be touching. If available I would always replace them for positive pull off when the brakes are released. Peter.

SORTED !

Thanks again guys, checked drum / shoe diameter both OK at 203mm. Checked everything is free and lubed. Picked hints and tips from all the replies.

Moved return spring to correct hole, pushed piston back into cylinder and wound out adjuster by hand until drum was a snug fit. I then centered the cylinder and completed the adjustment by operating the handbrake lever by hand.

Bingo no more gap in H plate, no more adjuster sticking.

I now need to lift my drivetrain out onto the drive, push Brum out and do the same to the NS. Oh for a big garage.

Brake pipes / bleed screw will be swapped later as I need to change the ancient brake fluid anyway.

No doubt I'll be on the scrounge again soon.

[greyV8pete]

Re: Handbrake Help

Excellent! Glad you got it sorted. Peter.

[b_caswell]

Re: Handbrake Help

Well done had me confused.

[Blue Marlin]

Re: Handbrake Help

Thanks again to all the replies to this. I managed to pick bits and pieces out of them and put the jigsaw together. ??????