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engine removal 1800 YKC roadster

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  • engine removal 1800 YKC roadster

    G,Day All
    I am about to remove the 1800 cc motor in my YKC Roadster , the reason being the synchromesh things are not doing what they should ,it wont shift down into 2nd or 3rd .In talking about this on this site it was suggested that instead of pulling the motor that I should undo the mounts remove the rad and lower the motor down and then lift car up and pull motor and transmission forward .So as winter is setting in I took a look at the car today and have some questions.I am not a mechanic but have converted my moggie to disc brakes and installed bits and pieces like exhaust system ,rads etc but this is big step for me.

    How heavy is the car with out the motor?
    I am turning 70 but know a couple of younger guys I could call in to lift the car or should I rent a motor crane?

    I assume the rad shell must come off ?

    Today while looking at photos of dash boards I noticed that the roadsters had much more space between the end of the shift job and the dash ,is this because my gearbox was modified when being built by adding an O/D unit , on my YKC roadster my fingers just fit between knob and dash in 1st and 3rd.

    Tonight while looking the motor over to see what is involved in disconnecting it I noticed that the clutch slave cylinder is some what loose in its bracket ,is this normal?

    Anyone who has been thought this job who can add any helpful information please feel free to tell me of anything you think I should know.

    Thank you
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Re: engine removal 1800 YKC roadster

    Hi,
    I have done a number of engine and gearbox removals in Marlin roadsters not YKC but I think there are some general principles. I would strongly suggest you get an engine hoist as you will need it to lift the engine off the mountings before you remove them. You can then lower the power unit onto the ground or preferably onto a wheeled dolly. You then use the engine hoist to raise the front of the car. I don’t know what it weighs, I guess a few strong friends could lift it but the engine hoist is easier and gives you more control. I have always removed the front cowl and radiator for better access, I don’t know if you can do the procedure without but it also keeps them out of harm’s way. I don’t know what sort of gearbox you have but for the Triumph/Marina ones the clutch slave cylinder is loose in the bracket until you apply pressure on the pedal. The pipe must be disconnected before lowering the power unit, I have found it doesn’t like being stretched. As to the variable distance seen between gear knob and dash I think this depends more on the length, and shape of the gear lever (I have shortened and bent mine) also the depths of the dash rather than the overdrive. Good luck. Tony

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    • #3
      Re: engine removal 1800 YKC roadster

      You don't needo to remove the rad if going out the bottom. When I did it my dad and I were able to lift the front by hand. Being a bit older now I would use a hoist to lift it.
      Mk2 SWB Marina Roadster with a 2.0L Pinto built in 1986

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      • #4
        Re: engine removal 1800 YKC roadster

        As Tony says, after disconnecting everything (and there will be at least one thing you will forget !) lower the engine/box onto a very low dolly with castors on it

        I don't know the YKC design but for the Marlin it was best to undo the front of the prop shaft and support it, then remove the gearbox rear support with the gearbox

        Then lift the body up and away from it. Check my build diary for some pics http://www.marlinownersclub.com/foru...-1-8TC-Q67-GJA

        = but note that my trolley is quite high which means a very high lift for the body

        ...............................enjoy !

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        • #5
          Re: engine removal 1800 YKC roadster

          And don't forget the speedo cable ! When your ready to drop the engine(if you go that way) take the front wheels off and then lower the car with engine as low as possible onto blocks then you wont need to lift the chassis so high to get over the engine plus less weight of the two wheels.
          Last edited by b_caswell; 24-11-16, 03:17 PM.
          Ben Caswell probably not the last word on anything here!!

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          • #6
            Re: engine removal 1800 YKC roadster

            Originally posted by b_caswell View Post
            And don't forget the speedo cable ! When your ready to drop the engine(if you go that way) take the front wheels off and then lower the car with engine as low as possible onto blocks then you wont need to lift the chassis so high to get over the engine plus less weight of the two wheels.
            Or the reverse switch wiring...got the t-shirt for that one..!
            Marlin Roadster, LWB...1860 B Series + Ford Type 9
            Renault Espace 54mm front calipers, vented discs, cycle wings and adjustable tie-bars.

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            • #7
              Re: engine removal 1800 YKC roadster

              Not just the speedo, but the reversing light switch!

              These little things are there to trap you!


              typing at the same time as lil red Roadster

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              • #8
                Re: engine removal 1800 YKC roadster

                Wow thanks guys .That is a lot of helpful info,especially the notes about speedo/back up light /etc
                Michael

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                • #9
                  Re: engine removal 1800 YKC roadster

                  If you can get hold of the end off an old prop you can use it to stop the oil coming out of the gearbox tail piece.
                  Mk2 SWB Marina Roadster with a 2.0L Pinto built in 1986

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                  • #10
                    Re: engine removal 1800 YKC roadster

                    Originally posted by andyf View Post
                    If you can get hold of the end off an old prop you can use it to stop the oil coming out of the gearbox tail piece.
                    Not necessary on a Triumph box. Necessary on a Ford T9.

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                    • #11
                      Re: engine removal 1800 YKC roadster

                      Never sure what to call that box it looks like a triumph but it attaches to a BMC 1800 some call it a Marina box others a triumph mine I guess is modified marina in that it has O/D 3&4 which I guess would have come from a spitfire.

                      Originally posted by stevejgreen View Post
                      Not necessary on a Triumph box. Necessary on a Ford T9.

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                      • #12
                        Re: engine removal 1800 YKC roadster

                        Originally posted by michael47 View Post
                        Never sure what to call that box it looks like a triumph but it attaches to a BMC 1800 some call it a Marina box others a triumph mine I guess is modified marina in that it has O/D 3&4 which I guess would have come from a spitfire.
                        The design of the box was pure Triumph, when fitted to a Marina, for some unknown reason the bell housing was lengthened, and for that reason the input shaft from flywheel to box was lengthened, just for the Marina. All the internal parts of the gearbox were still pure Triumph derived.
                        The Marina never had an overdrive fitted, to do so would have required modification to the transmission tunnel, and a longer output shaft, easier to do on a kit car. So Marlin owners took a standard Triumph overdrive gearbox from a Spitfire (though there were other options) and stripped and rebuilt the otherwise pure Triumph box, with the original Marina input shaft and Triumph output shaft. On some occasions the complete triumph gear set were removed and replaced with the Marina gear set. This is because the gear on the end of the Marina input shaft was for a particular ratio and had to match the ratios of the main gear cluster.
                        If you scan through the Tech Tips 1993, you will find several articles detailing the changes necessary depending as to which overdrive is fitted.
                        You will most certainly have a Marina input shaft. In all probability everything else will be Triumph, but you will not know for certain till you open the box and start counting gear teeth. In your case, unless you have chipped gearteeth, it's irrelevant as your problem sounds to be completely related to selector/synchro wear, all Triumph parts, whether originally fitted in a Marina or Triumph.

                        One thing to watch out for, the reverse gear idler was a particular weak point. If you get that deeply into the gearbox, be aware that there are several options, depending on the age and history of the box. It's not possible to tell externally.

                        Should you have the box professionally rebuilt, any mechanic familiar with Triumph gearboxes should have no problems.

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                        • #13
                          Re: engine removal 1800 YKC roadster

                          Wow it is amazing how much info you guys have!I have got lucky with the the tranny I have found the guy that built the original O/D tranny in my car in 1993 and he is still is business and remembers my car it being the only Marlin he had seen.So I start removing the engine within the next couple of weeks.
                          Thanks

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                          • #14
                            Re: engine removal 1800 YKC roadster

                            Originally posted by stevejgreen View Post
                            Not necessary on a Triumph box. Necessary on a Ford T9.
                            I've only eve played with Fords
                            Mk2 SWB Marina Roadster with a 2.0L Pinto built in 1986

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                            • #15
                              Re: engine removal 1800 YKC roadster

                              I have no knowledge of the 1800 (My engine and gearbox is from a 2.0 Sierra) but if I were going to take my engine out I would give serious consideration to modifying the engine bay side panels so that they can be removed in the future without having to virtually dismantle the car. There is very little room to access the engine as it is but with removeable side panels it becomes very much easier. Is that the case with the 1800?

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