Roadster Rebuild Diary from Cornwall

[Neil Johm Kirk]

Re: Roadster Rebuild Diary from Cornwall

Being a life long fan (almost) of the Simpsons the kids bought me some Duff beer so thought I had better drink at least one as I had a plan for the can.

[ATTACH]8790[/ATTACH]

Interesting, have previously seen similar done in a TVR engine bay with a Red Bull can, don't know if it made the car any faster or gave it wings mind........

[meverett]

Re: Roadster Rebuild Diary from Cornwall

After a bit of trial and error on the lathe I have made my own tool and installed the cam shell bearings.

IMG_3813.JPG

Installed the cam followers and very carefully inserted the cam.

IMG_3814.JPG

Need to order the big end and crank shells now.

[milliemarlin]

Re: Roadster Rebuild Diary from Cornwall

Hah! Are you going to fit a donut holder?
Cheers, Homer

[meverett]

Re: Roadster Rebuild Diary from Cornwall

Being a life long fan (almost) of the Simpsons the kids bought me some Duff beer so thought I had better drink at least one as I had a plan for the can.

IMG_3810.JPG

[meverett]

Re: Roadster Rebuild Diary from Cornwall

Still need to fit the new cam bearings in the A series.
Fitting tools seem to be too expensive so is anyone has made up a home made fitting tool I would appreciate a picture or two.

[meverett]

Re: Roadster Rebuild Diary from Cornwall

After the engine strip down I plan to replace the crank and big end shell bearings and on closer inspection the cam bearings are scuffed up so I have removed them and ordered new. I have been reading up on the installation for these and it is critical that they are pressed or knocked in with a special cam bearing tool. I can't find one for sale in the uk and ones from USA are stupid money. Has anyone made a diy fitting tool or would it be best to take the block and new shells to an engineering workshop to fit.

[meverett]

Re: Roadster Rebuild Diary from Cornwall

The tank had a little surface rust but not much and it cleaned up a treat, just needs paint now. I don't think I will get away with bringing that indoors for the paint to harden though, may try my luck.
Hopefully new shells, gaskets and seals and engine back together. I think the shells are standard size as I'm sure the crank hasn't been reground as the dimensions are 2.000".
Need to give it all a good clean as there is rust residue in the water ways on the block, I have got a big container so going to try electrolysis to remove, I tried it to remove some rust from some other components and worked quite well.

[dcunn]

Re: Roadster Rebuild Diary from Cornwall

Wot, no rust on the tank, you lucky guy

Will you get away with new shells in the engine ?

[meverett]

Re: Roadster Rebuild Diary from Cornwall

stripped the old paint off the fuel tank today.
Before.

IMG_3655.JPG

After, just need to paint.

IMG_3656.JPG

On to the little 1300 engine, was going to just replace gaskets and seals but one thing led to another and I got carried away to a strip down.

IMG_3662.JPG

IMG_3663.JPG

[meverett]

Re: Roadster Rebuild Diary from Cornwall

Thanks for the replies Ben and Peter.
The reverse selector fork was to blame. I tried like Ben said and straighten it slightly at the bottom end. I think I did by about 1mm and here is the box back together again. Very slight noise but I think most of that is slapping oil. To get the selector fork out it was bell housing off, rear extension off and remove the idler shaft. Please also thank the Triumph boys for their help.

https://youtu.be/xVAe6u3fXhg

[meverett]

Re: Roadster Rebuild Diary from Cornwall

Ok thanks, I have just stripped it back down (I'm getting good at that) and compare the selector fork and other bits with the donor gearbox parts. Will report back.

[b_caswell]

Re: Roadster Rebuild Diary from Cornwall

Ive picked some brains on the TSSC forum and their opinion is that its a common problem even with recon boxes.
Caused by a combination of wear in the operating lever and idler.
I am not sure how much of the box needs to be dismantled again to get the reverse gear operating lever out of the casing. But the suggestion is note which way it works then put it in the vice and gently bend the bottom of the arm backwards. Just a little at a time until it clears the mainshaft gear.
Hope this helps and I will report back to the Triumph boys.
Ben

[greyV8pete]

Re: Roadster Rebuild Diary from Cornwall

Is the selector fork / detent in the correct position? From hazy memory I had a gearbox years ago (maybe TR3A?) and there was a spacer tube on the bottom gear selector shaft to prevent over travel of the selector fork. Peter.

[meverett]

Re: Roadster Rebuild Diary from Cornwall

Re: Marina / Ital gearbox parts.
Ok, now I have rebuilt this gearbox ready for fitting I thought it would be a good idea to fill up with ep90 oil and spin it over with the drill on the first motion shaft.
It was making a bit of noise in first gear (ticking) when the teeth are engaging. I have lifted the lid to inspect and tied it down to the reverse idler that seems to be slightly engaged when in first gear. All the other gears are quiet.
I have used the 17 teeth idler, 29 teeth hub on the 13 teeth laygear from the donor gearbox and all the other gears are the same between both boxes. The donor gears looked in good condition with no major wear.
Is this common on these gearboxes?

https://youtu.be/1YKLiNXjFNc

[meverett]

Re: Roadster Rebuild Diary from Cornwall

Thanks DC. Yours will be back on the road before mine.