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With apologies to V8Pete...whose advice has always been terrific and I wished I'd taken it this time but as I had the stuff "in" and didn't want to waste it....I used what I had. WHAT AM I ON ABOUT?
WELL...feeling suitably warned by my researches here and elsewhere regarding the wonder product Hammerite, I used some stuff called POR15 bought from Frost Restoration. (Apparently POR stands for Paint Over Rust). Frost were very helpful, they even sent me a link to a Youtube clip of preparation technique. The finish is really good, as it happens, really glossy and the coverage is good...but I must mention several caveats....1) It's not cheap..., 750ml tin costs around £40. You also need the special thinners £22 for a litre), POR'a own degreaser at £20 for a quart and also their own "Prep and Ready"at £36-£45 for 3.5 litres....and you're advised to use cheap throw-away brushes (I spent £8 at Wilkinsons on 1" ones) as they'll be useless afterwards. 2) It's really messy....maybe it's just me, but it gets everywhere despite gloves and old clothes and if you don't get it off your skin immediately (they say to use their thinners for this) it probably won't come off at all. 3) It's a 4 step process...but at least it goes a long way (10 square metres on above quantities) and it takes a while: wire brushing / degreasing / hosing off / drying time / Prep and Ready (the actual rust conversion) more hosing off / drying time / POR15 application (two coats, drying time between. .....AND if it's to be used in an area exposed to sunlight, it needs a topcoat as well...the Chassis black top coat is a wapping £140 on top. I reasoned that the chassis won't see much sunlight so I haven't bothered with a top coat. 4) It's advisable to buy multiple small tins.....as if you replace the lid with any product AT ALL in the grooves, after an overnight stand you will not be able to remove the lid again so any product left is wasted. My son and I decanted from the original tin into two jars....but when we came to do the second coat (overnight drying time) the only way into the jar was by way of a drill through the lid and a pair of tin snips....ALSO it's really horrid: loads of H and S advice on the tin / bottle concerning ventilation / breathing masks and miscellaneous toxicity) TIME WILL TELL how good this stuff really is....it certainly looks good at the moment....but I think it's probably best used for a ground up restoration rather than a touching up. Costs would then equate to about £300 for the entire chassis...for a (possibly better) finish equivalent to powder coating? Others have used Rustoleum.
WELL...feeling suitably warned by my researches here and elsewhere regarding the wonder product Hammerite, I used some stuff called POR15 bought from Frost Restoration. (Apparently POR stands for Paint Over Rust). Frost were very helpful, they even sent me a link to a Youtube clip of preparation technique. The finish is really good, as it happens, really glossy and the coverage is good...but I must mention several caveats....1) It's not cheap..., 750ml tin costs around £40. You also need the special thinners £22 for a litre), POR'a own degreaser at £20 for a quart and also their own "Prep and Ready"at £36-£45 for 3.5 litres....and you're advised to use cheap throw-away brushes (I spent £8 at Wilkinsons on 1" ones) as they'll be useless afterwards. 2) It's really messy....maybe it's just me, but it gets everywhere despite gloves and old clothes and if you don't get it off your skin immediately (they say to use their thinners for this) it probably won't come off at all. 3) It's a 4 step process...but at least it goes a long way (10 square metres on above quantities) and it takes a while: wire brushing / degreasing / hosing off / drying time / Prep and Ready (the actual rust conversion) more hosing off / drying time / POR15 application (two coats, drying time between. .....AND if it's to be used in an area exposed to sunlight, it needs a topcoat as well...the Chassis black top coat is a wapping £140 on top. I reasoned that the chassis won't see much sunlight so I haven't bothered with a top coat. 4) It's advisable to buy multiple small tins.....as if you replace the lid with any product AT ALL in the grooves, after an overnight stand you will not be able to remove the lid again so any product left is wasted. My son and I decanted from the original tin into two jars....but when we came to do the second coat (overnight drying time) the only way into the jar was by way of a drill through the lid and a pair of tin snips....ALSO it's really horrid: loads of H and S advice on the tin / bottle concerning ventilation / breathing masks and miscellaneous toxicity) TIME WILL TELL how good this stuff really is....it certainly looks good at the moment....but I think it's probably best used for a ground up restoration rather than a touching up. Costs would then equate to about £300 for the entire chassis...for a (possibly better) finish equivalent to powder coating? Others have used Rustoleum.
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