Jrr 929 d

[David]

Re: Jrr 929 d

Thanks Ben, I've bought the stick, and Rimmers have the collar and associated bits.

[b_caswell]

Re: Jrr 929 d

Sorry missed that first time round yes thats for a three rail box needs the ball changing.
You need the knob that takes the switch and there should be a threaded collar that holds the knob on.


The collar C30623 actually goes inside the knob not as shown in drawing.

[David]

Re: Jrr 929 d

s-l1600-18.jpg

I may revert to a dash mounted switch, unless someone can tell me that the Spitfire overdrive gearstick will swap with this Vitesse one as the Spit stick is drilled for the wires I believe. But then I think I recall back in the day that these used to wear through the insulation and short out as well.

Unless you can find a spitfire/GT6 gear stick from an early 3 rail box!! the later single rail gear lever is different.
You could try using some shrink wrap over the existing cables they also wear on the entry hole into the stick as well.

Is this, on eBay, the correct stick Ben?

[lizbillings]

Re: Jrr 929 d

I think its been altered since 2004. I don't think we have any interior pictures.

[dcunn]

Re: Jrr 929 d

The only "cockpit" shot in the archive is this, which I have cropped from one of Derek's when JRR was on the trailer prior to the start of the rebuild

[David]

Re: Jrr 929 d

Triumph Dolomite 1850 also had a gear stick mounted overdrive (had one when I was younger though the engine was replaced by a TR7 one, a bit nippier). Just in case you are looking for alternate sources.

We had a smaller steering wheel and the overdrive switch was mounted next to the gear lever on the transmission tunnel.

Thanks both.

I wondered if that cigar lighter that I have just replaced with a USB power source (see above) was an overdrive switch location originally. Maybe I should put it back there and find somewhere else for the USB power supply.

Do you, or anyone else here, have a photo showing that original switch? Was it a standard toggle switch?

Thanks,

David.

[lizbillings]

Re: Jrr 929 d

We had a smaller steering wheel and the overdrive switch was mounted next to the gear lever on the transmission tunnel.

[wiggiesworld]

Re: Jrr 929 d

Triumph Dolomite 1850 also had a gear stick mounted overdrive (had one when I was younger though the engine was replaced by a TR7 one, a bit nippier). Just in case you are looking for alternate sources.

[David]

Re: Jrr 929 d

Thanks Ben.

[b_caswell]

Re: Jrr 929 d


I may revert to a dash mounted switch, unless someone can tell me that the Spitfire overdrive gearstick will swap with this Vitesse one as the Spit stick is drilled for the wires I believe. But then I think I recall back in the day that these used to wear through the insulation and short out as well.

Unless you can find a spitfire/GT6 gear stick from an early 3 rail box!! the later single rail gear lever is different.
You could try using some shrink wrap over the existing cables they also wear on the entry hole into the stick as well.

[David]

Re: Jrr 929 d

Slow progress, gear knob off today and discovered why the fuse is blowing, the wiring has worn through the insulation and is shorting out on the gearstick. See photo of underside of gear knob.

I may revert to a dash mounted switch, unless someone can tell me that the Spitfire overdrive gearstick will swap with this Vitesse one as the Spit stick is drilled for the wires I believe. But then I think I recall back in the day that these used to wear through the insulation and short out as well.

There's no room between the steering wheel and dash for the usual column mounted overdrive switch.

I think Derek said it used to be on the dashboard as a toggle switch?

Any ideas from overdrive enabled Roadsters, what have you all done?

IMG_2531.jpg

[David]

Re: Jrr 929 d

Be careful, or you'll be back to a bare chassis in no time !!!

That’s what I’m trying to avoid!

[928cdu]

Re: Jrr 929 d

Be careful, or you'll be back to a bare chassis in no time !!!

[David]

Re: Jrr 929 d

Quick update from the weekend.

Whilst taking the transmission cover off to a) replace the remote gear changer bushing, and b) fit a USB power supply, I noticed the fuel pipe is fouling the gear change when reverse is selected.

You can just see the scuff marks on the close up. Scary! I'm going to have to remove the tunnel rear top, and side panels as well to re-run the fuel line down the left side of the tunnel as the pump and pressure regulator is on that side of the engine. That'll avoid having to cross over the prop shaft and will get the pipe away from the gear change mechanism.

IMG_2506.jpgIMG_2503.jpg

Fitted a double USB adapter. This one has a waterproof cap and comes with a long fused lead and plugged fittings ready to pop onto the battery or a power feed.

IMG_2508.jpgIMG_2509.jpg

Finally, sourced a Moto-lita plastic steering wheel cap and Triumph logo (I know) to pop in to give some clue to people what the car is based on. Also polished up the alloy spokes.

IMG_2507.jpg

This all started as a 'quick' job to re-bush the remote changer.

[David]

Re: Jrr 929 d

Have you noticed the car has TWO heaters and an interior light. I suggest you RING ME!!

Not called Derek yet as got a few things to put on the list this evening.

Did get the switches sorted out though. In the photo above, below the speedo they are, from the left;

- Passenger heater/fan
- Driver side heater/fan
- Interior light

The chrome switch on the right of the dash is for the cooling electric fan.

The fuse had blown on that heaters/wipers/washer circuit. I suspect because the electric fan live feed has been taken off the same circuit and I'm guessing adding the amperage up of all that is more than 20. The wiring diagram shows 10amp there anyway, so not sure why there's a 20 in there, I hope not just because someone thought they'd fix a blowing fuse by upping the rating!

I think the heater fans will be around 3-4amp, the wiper motor 1-2amp, probably a lot more (up to 10amp?) when it's 'stuck with ice' trying to move and then the electric fan switch will be drawing some although I see there's a relay there to kick in the high current feed so not too much. I've popped a 20amp back in, if it fails again I will have to get the meter out and read off the draw from each device then rethink. Maybe I need to fresh live feed independently fused for the electric fan/switch.