Tweet
Just bought one from eBay.
Overhauling it with new seals/brakes/etc.
Wheel cylinders are only 5/8" bore BTW. NOT actually the same as some TRs and Morgans.
There is an oil drain hole at lower part of tin cover under backplate - both mine were apparently blocked. [It was designed to keep leaking oil off the brake shoes! - and allow escaping oil to leak down the back of the backplate.]
Hub nuts are damn tight! (150 > 180lb.ft.) - as they hold the bearing inner race.
They are an odd size - 1 61/64" AF ... But according to an American MGA site they are actually 1 15/16"AF nuts.
First measurement equates to about 49.6mm
Stamped L/H and R/H for direction of threads. (L/H nut is on nearside of axle). Tried a 50mm socket BUT found socket was 6-sided and nuts are 8-sided ... Allegedly a 12-sided socket will fit - but its O/D must fit within the hub.
ETA
Rimmer Bros appear to be slightly confused - or my axle is odd !
They sell a new hub nut with left-hand thread .... but state clearly it is 'for the right-hand side' ?
Mine is the opposite. i.e. l/h thread on nearside or left-hand of the axle. ( Theory would be that if the washer/nut does work loose then anti-clockwise rotation of wheel should tighten it up.?)
Wheelnuts on van are 7/16" UNF.
Quite common to find handbrake pivots have worn 'divots' in the backplates. Will MIGweld up and resurface mine. Lubricate with Coppergrease ?
ETA Noticed a probable typo in Leyland's MGB manual. It says diff side gear washers are "Tufnal"? Never heard of it - but I have heard of Tufnol.
Extra ETA.
You might be wise [whilst the hubs are stripped] to knock the studs out and gently file (fine) or stone the flange face. Found mine had several raised points that would create potential leakage issues with even a new O-ring and .010" paper gasket.
Overhauling it with new seals/brakes/etc.
Wheel cylinders are only 5/8" bore BTW. NOT actually the same as some TRs and Morgans.
There is an oil drain hole at lower part of tin cover under backplate - both mine were apparently blocked. [It was designed to keep leaking oil off the brake shoes! - and allow escaping oil to leak down the back of the backplate.]
Hub nuts are damn tight! (150 > 180lb.ft.) - as they hold the bearing inner race.
They are an odd size - 1 61/64" AF ... But according to an American MGA site they are actually 1 15/16"AF nuts.
First measurement equates to about 49.6mm
Stamped L/H and R/H for direction of threads. (L/H nut is on nearside of axle). Tried a 50mm socket BUT found socket was 6-sided and nuts are 8-sided ... Allegedly a 12-sided socket will fit - but its O/D must fit within the hub.
ETA
Rimmer Bros appear to be slightly confused - or my axle is odd !
They sell a new hub nut with left-hand thread .... but state clearly it is 'for the right-hand side' ?
Mine is the opposite. i.e. l/h thread on nearside or left-hand of the axle. ( Theory would be that if the washer/nut does work loose then anti-clockwise rotation of wheel should tighten it up.?)
Wheelnuts on van are 7/16" UNF.
Quite common to find handbrake pivots have worn 'divots' in the backplates. Will MIGweld up and resurface mine. Lubricate with Coppergrease ?
ETA Noticed a probable typo in Leyland's MGB manual. It says diff side gear washers are "Tufnal"? Never heard of it - but I have heard of Tufnol.
Extra ETA.
You might be wise [whilst the hubs are stripped] to knock the studs out and gently file (fine) or stone the flange face. Found mine had several raised points that would create potential leakage issues with even a new O-ring and .010" paper gasket.
Comment