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  • #16
    Re: help !!

    Originally posted by wiggiesworld View Post
    When you get your replacement made, have you considered having it fitted in a manner similar to the Cabrio's whereby each end of the hinge is also secured to the bodywork? That why if a clip comes loose the worst you can anticipate is it flapping up and down a tad. Just a thought, don't know if this a fitment that can be done to a roadster?
    Bit of a sore point, that's how mine "was" fitted to stop it coming off but after the respray i haven't got round to putting the front fitting on

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    • #17
      Re: help !!

      Inspired by how the original bonnet was made I'm going to make a new one with a little help for a friend. but can someone please measure the thickness of the sheet used I'm guessing at 2mm, but if someone can check it would be appreciated.

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      • #18
        Re: help !!

        Yep my hinged bonnet is 2mm
        Good luck

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        • #19
          Re: help !!

          Hi Nigel Sorry to hear about your bonnet when my one piece came off many moons back I managed to salvage it with the help
          of a night school tutor. But still carries some scars

          The original Marlin brochure says all the alloy was 16 gauge which the charts say is 1.6 mm. So I would go with Meverett on the 2mm.

          Best of luck
          Ben Caswell probably not the last word on anything here!!

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          • #20
            Re: help !!

            My Roadster has a split bonnet with end fittings to the body but my 35yr old Locust has a one piece bonnet with a clip that fits under the edge of the nose cone. You put the front on first and push forwards. I have metal overcenter clips(probably non IVA) with 'R' pins or suitcase padlocks to secure them. Why not trad leather strap over the bonnet?

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            • #21
              Re: help !!

              Even F1 cars lose engine covers, if you are watching the first practice at Spa!

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              • #22
                Re: help !!

                A little update on my efforts to replace the bonnet first the hinge now fixed at both ends as it should be IMG_20190907_173632_resized_20190915_075116731.jpgIMG_20190907_173600_resized_20190915_075116009.jpgIMG_20190907_173515_resized_20190915_075116181.jpg

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                • #23
                  Re: help !!

                  After spending all day saturday working on the bonnet we had mixed success, the technique was worked out and one half of the bonnet but a with few errors, but we now have a good pattern to use to get it right at the next attempt.
                  IMG_20190914_105850_resized_20190915_075115351.jpgIMG_20190914_104623_resized_20190915_082925566.jpgIMG_20190914_160437_resized_20190915_075115593.jpg

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                  • #24
                    Re: help !!

                    That’s some awesome work, love proper fabrication!
                    - 9th owner of T693 SSC possibly a factory built Ford based V8 Sportster
                    - 4th owner of Q309 RNV, an early Cabrio built by Bob Copping, owned Doug & Liz Billings for 16 years
                    - 9th Custodian of JRR 929D, Triumph Vitesse based special Paul Moorehouse built prior to the Triumph Roadster kits.
                    - 8th owner of Roadster chassis number 2395. Now owned by Barry!
                    - Builder of chassis number 2325 (PKK 989M) in the mid 80's. Now owned by Eric & Lynne.

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                    • #25
                      Re: help !!

                      Respect!

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                      • #26
                        Just re-visiting this topic as I am just about to re-make my bonnet.
                        If Nigel_Cordrey is still a member would it be possible to get a little more detail about the bonnet making.
                        I am particulary interetsed in the source and the dimensions of the tube used as a former :-)
                        But any additional information greatfully received!
                        Cheers, Robin
                        Last edited by martinclan56; 04-06-24, 12:25 PM. Reason: Typo

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                        • #27
                          I made a stainless steel bonnet - I used a 4 inch pipe to do the main bends with the stainless pieces being overside then held them to the car and marked where to cut

                          I'm away from home until July so I can't post pictures - I replace the bonnet and the sides with stainless as the aluminium ones were badly corroded

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                          • #28
                            Thank you. I measured the bonnet radius at about 4". Presumably the 2" radius (4" diameter) pipe used as a former allowed for the spring back after the bend was made? I think stainless is much more springy than aluminium that I am using.
                            Cheers Robin
                            Last edited by martinclan56; 10-06-24, 08:47 AM.

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                            • #29
                              Yes that's right I overbent the stainless and it was then easy to just unbend it a bit - you want a smaller radius at the front end and a larger radius at the back end

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