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Today? It took me over two months... It is going to be a long post...
I know that if it ain't broke, don't fix it... but it broke, just a little.
It was late October as I realized that it is time to put the hardtop on for the winter. My wipers were tending to stuck in the off position but it was not a big deal driving open top... but with the hardtop on it is not easy to grab out to make them move further.
So let's fix this. The left (in my case drivers side) wiper axle fixing has developed a stress crack. Easy job... once you get acces. So out got middle console, dashboard and half of the loom (probably even 60% by weight as the loom was not adjusted once installed and just squeezed behind the console). The loom was always a pain in the... so I took the rest of it out to clear it.
Just a few days after (before any real work has started) my son announced that he is going to marry his girlfriend - in about two months. Chances to get the Berlinetta drivable by 6th of January were minimal. The GRP part with wiper mounts has been reinforced (1), but the axle was looking bad as well as the wiper thread. So "new" axle (used one) was sourced to find that the ball joint size differs so I had to replace the ball from the old one (2). Axle replaced but wiper operation not verified due to no loom installed (3).
As we are at the wipers, there was only one (normal) speed working and I always dreamed of the intermittent option. A 3-level intermittent box purchased, many hours spent on combining it with ford-electric-logics (self parking), adjusting the pcb, adding a diode, extending to 4 level = normal, connecting hi-speed to the switch stalk (4). And of course incorporating the box into the console.
The rubber on Rubbolite rear (rrrr...) lamps was perished so it was good time to install the Britax replacement. These lamps are fixed to the rear wings that in turn were cracked (after direct contact with a tyre-4-pack during track day...). Glass fibre, resin, fiber, resin ... fixed (5). New lamps installed (6). To facilitate connection-disconnection of lamps and wings and also to cover the connector and lamp fixing/cabling a shield has been made and fixing for it (7).
Ok, back to the loom. Tape out, finding ends (sometimes more than two) of each cable, labeling.
BTW the tow bar socket - this is the right time to upgrade from 7 to 13 pin. BTW(2) the tow bar bolts looked rusty - replaced with stainless steel (I could not resist - have polished the heads) (8). And repainted the towbar. Made new stainless fixings for reversing and forg lamps - old aluminium were causing corrosion around (9).
My fog and reversing lamps are stainless steel (new in 2017 from Demon Tweeks - was 20 now 40 GBP) unfortunately just the casing is stainless (quite thin) and not water tight - as a result the internal reflecting/bulb fixing part was severely corroded - cleaned, stabilized, painted, put together (10).
In the meantime a fuse and relay socket modules were purchased, and cables, connectors etc.
I was waving from one small job to another being distracted by more and more things that "have to be done first"
Under the bonnet - the Cortina heater was replaced a few years ago by a smaller fan/heater module but using the old air distributor part. Yes it was delivering warm air but was far from optimal. New "housing" for the heater + new hoses, clamps, fixings. (In-cabin linkage to be done later) (11). Battery location replaced (12). Sider turn signal repeaters - left was missing glass (plastic) right one cracked = replaced with new Peugeot repeaters with the hooks cut off (13).
As the main lamps developed some corrosion new ones were ordered - flat glas with the reflector acting as the lens like the look) - replaced (14).
While working at the back... top shock absorbers mountings were covered with oil bottles by one of the previous owners/builders... made aluminium boxes (sourced from scraped analytical equipment chassis), on the right side covered with black carpet while the other side left uncovered as it is not easily visible - have a lockable compartment there (15).
Middle December started with the new loom. Do you know how to eat a elephant? It's easy just a bite at a time. Same here a cable at a time. Measure twice, check both ends, strip ends, crimp connectors or terminals, solder (just to be sure), on some reused cables I had to clean the ends with a fiber pen, sometimes put on heat-shrinking tube, and repeat with the next one...
I have reused most of the original loom as to keep the cable colours. New circuits or severely damaged cables were outsourced from a Volvo loom I had in my garage (that's another story I can tell you in a Pub some day). Also the thick battery cables are now from a Volvo.
I have booked my holiday 20th December to 10th January and used most of the time in the garage. Even the night 4th-5th was busy - keeping in mind the wedding date of 6th.
Anyway on The Day my son was able to drive the Belinetta from our home to her home to church to party place and I was able to drive her back home. Without any problems despite snowfall (and non working wipers).
Then I had to work (real money making - not hobby money spending) again but... two days late my daughter (and wife) got a positive COVID test so I'm on quarantine. Guess where I'm separating myself? Yes, in the garage. Wipers feed cable installed. New tee-pieces installed in the heater tubings. Electronic thermostat for radiator fan leaked smoke and died - replaced.
Nose cone mesh repainted (16).
Counting the loom as one it is 17. Oh, NO. The regular relays fit neatly into the new modular sockets but the turn signal and hazard relays were too big to fit neary and I had no desire to rewire the cables on the sockets. Tried to buy new smaller ones without success. Opened the units, grinded the base and pcb inside, cut the cover diagonally and grinded to size, welded the plastic covers again, finishing and it fits!!! (18). And I have cleaned the KnN filter, but oil change still has to be done...
As for now everything seems to work. (OK - the fuel tank sender has to be matched to the gauge somehow).
I still haven't managed how put pictures within the text. So here it comes all together . If something is not clear please ask.
Bests regards
Roman
I know that if it ain't broke, don't fix it... but it broke, just a little.
It was late October as I realized that it is time to put the hardtop on for the winter. My wipers were tending to stuck in the off position but it was not a big deal driving open top... but with the hardtop on it is not easy to grab out to make them move further.
So let's fix this. The left (in my case drivers side) wiper axle fixing has developed a stress crack. Easy job... once you get acces. So out got middle console, dashboard and half of the loom (probably even 60% by weight as the loom was not adjusted once installed and just squeezed behind the console). The loom was always a pain in the... so I took the rest of it out to clear it.
Just a few days after (before any real work has started) my son announced that he is going to marry his girlfriend - in about two months. Chances to get the Berlinetta drivable by 6th of January were minimal. The GRP part with wiper mounts has been reinforced (1), but the axle was looking bad as well as the wiper thread. So "new" axle (used one) was sourced to find that the ball joint size differs so I had to replace the ball from the old one (2). Axle replaced but wiper operation not verified due to no loom installed (3).
As we are at the wipers, there was only one (normal) speed working and I always dreamed of the intermittent option. A 3-level intermittent box purchased, many hours spent on combining it with ford-electric-logics (self parking), adjusting the pcb, adding a diode, extending to 4 level = normal, connecting hi-speed to the switch stalk (4). And of course incorporating the box into the console.
The rubber on Rubbolite rear (rrrr...) lamps was perished so it was good time to install the Britax replacement. These lamps are fixed to the rear wings that in turn were cracked (after direct contact with a tyre-4-pack during track day...). Glass fibre, resin, fiber, resin ... fixed (5). New lamps installed (6). To facilitate connection-disconnection of lamps and wings and also to cover the connector and lamp fixing/cabling a shield has been made and fixing for it (7).
Ok, back to the loom. Tape out, finding ends (sometimes more than two) of each cable, labeling.
BTW the tow bar socket - this is the right time to upgrade from 7 to 13 pin. BTW(2) the tow bar bolts looked rusty - replaced with stainless steel (I could not resist - have polished the heads) (8). And repainted the towbar. Made new stainless fixings for reversing and forg lamps - old aluminium were causing corrosion around (9).
My fog and reversing lamps are stainless steel (new in 2017 from Demon Tweeks - was 20 now 40 GBP) unfortunately just the casing is stainless (quite thin) and not water tight - as a result the internal reflecting/bulb fixing part was severely corroded - cleaned, stabilized, painted, put together (10).
In the meantime a fuse and relay socket modules were purchased, and cables, connectors etc.
I was waving from one small job to another being distracted by more and more things that "have to be done first"
Under the bonnet - the Cortina heater was replaced a few years ago by a smaller fan/heater module but using the old air distributor part. Yes it was delivering warm air but was far from optimal. New "housing" for the heater + new hoses, clamps, fixings. (In-cabin linkage to be done later) (11). Battery location replaced (12). Sider turn signal repeaters - left was missing glass (plastic) right one cracked = replaced with new Peugeot repeaters with the hooks cut off (13).
As the main lamps developed some corrosion new ones were ordered - flat glas with the reflector acting as the lens like the look) - replaced (14).
While working at the back... top shock absorbers mountings were covered with oil bottles by one of the previous owners/builders... made aluminium boxes (sourced from scraped analytical equipment chassis), on the right side covered with black carpet while the other side left uncovered as it is not easily visible - have a lockable compartment there (15).
Middle December started with the new loom. Do you know how to eat a elephant? It's easy just a bite at a time. Same here a cable at a time. Measure twice, check both ends, strip ends, crimp connectors or terminals, solder (just to be sure), on some reused cables I had to clean the ends with a fiber pen, sometimes put on heat-shrinking tube, and repeat with the next one...
I have reused most of the original loom as to keep the cable colours. New circuits or severely damaged cables were outsourced from a Volvo loom I had in my garage (that's another story I can tell you in a Pub some day). Also the thick battery cables are now from a Volvo.
I have booked my holiday 20th December to 10th January and used most of the time in the garage. Even the night 4th-5th was busy - keeping in mind the wedding date of 6th.
Anyway on The Day my son was able to drive the Belinetta from our home to her home to church to party place and I was able to drive her back home. Without any problems despite snowfall (and non working wipers).
Then I had to work (real money making - not hobby money spending) again but... two days late my daughter (and wife) got a positive COVID test so I'm on quarantine. Guess where I'm separating myself? Yes, in the garage. Wipers feed cable installed. New tee-pieces installed in the heater tubings. Electronic thermostat for radiator fan leaked smoke and died - replaced.
Nose cone mesh repainted (16).
Counting the loom as one it is 17. Oh, NO. The regular relays fit neatly into the new modular sockets but the turn signal and hazard relays were too big to fit neary and I had no desire to rewire the cables on the sockets. Tried to buy new smaller ones without success. Opened the units, grinded the base and pcb inside, cut the cover diagonally and grinded to size, welded the plastic covers again, finishing and it fits!!! (18). And I have cleaned the KnN filter, but oil change still has to be done...
As for now everything seems to work. (OK - the fuel tank sender has to be matched to the gauge somehow).
I still haven't managed how put pictures within the text. So here it comes all together . If something is not clear please ask.
Bests regards
Roman
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