Q147DDC

[rhysnolan]

The car arrived to me in Tamworth this morning, and I am happy to say very much as described. Now the myriad questions will start, please forgive me if I am doing this wrongly.
What is certain that has to be sorted are the front tie rod/radius arms, the bushes are no longer present, so what is the preferred option? I see adjustable ones, mention of polybushes... For the interim I really need to have an economic (cheap) option with perhaps a more sophisticated version later.
My intention is to replace all brake flexi lines with braided hoses, for this I have a man who makes them about half a mile from home. Obviously brake fluid will be replaced throughout, pads, discs, shoes and drums checked as well as calipers and wheel cylinders.
Fuel lines will be replaced with "E" compatible, carbs given a service.
Oil change and filter of course.

[dcunn]

Enjoy !

[jon_wilkinson]

Superflex poly bushes ref SF234-0669K

[rhysnolan]

Thanks Jon, I left out the other essential, tyres! They all look fine, but they are old, so they have to go. Also there will be a good dousing with Lanoguard, a product I used for several other projects.

[FranklinLeicester]

A cheap quick way to get over the front tie bar problem is to buy a pair of black, hard round rubber door stops, say £3? Cut and drill them to fit as required. I did this about 10 years ago and just check the nut occasionally and alls well. I pointed them out to my MOT man and he said “why pay more?”

[rhysnolan]

I now have my braided lines, £40 for the lot, The biggest issue for me so far is undoing the tiebar nut, failed so far!
I will be sorting seats, somehow, the ones in it are horrible.

[andyf]

Soak it with plusgas for a while possibly days and then some heat if that fails

[rhysnolan]

Today's effort, the tie bars are out. One has a thread that doesn't delight me, and I can't think of a solution for now except replace it. Hmm. Perhaps cut off the offending part and have something else welded on???
I also got both of the things called seats out, it was a bit of a faff, and I don't know what I'll do with them, but certainly not going back in the car. Maybe I will do the one piece back rest and use some of my own seat cushions for the bases. Our own Racetech seats won't fit.

[rhysnolan]

The more I delve, the more I find
So wheel bearings are full of copper grease, great for non corrosion but not a load bearing grease! Replace!
Seized calipers.
Unbelievable amount of bashing in of the sump, thankfully it hasn't distorted the pump pick up.
I'm not blaming anyone, I should have spent a full day travelling to inspect, but at least I know it will be a good car at the end!
Tie bars are now on with superflex bushes.
One sidewheel bearing to be replaced, I have yet to pull the other now that I have found the copper grease Why would anyone do that?
Shall I pull the dust shields and refurb or just discard them?

[jon_wilkinson]

So wheel bearings are full of copper grease, great for non corrosion but not a load bearing grease! Replace!

Never cease to be amazed what some folks will do! Don't forget the end float when you install the new bearings.

[rhysnolan]

Brake calipers are not letting go of the pistons, and of course there is the issue that there are 2, not a pair. Has anyone tried the Spitfire type 14 calipers? I know I would need to make up new pipework, but I did that for a living at one stage, so no major issue.
I am using the electrolysis method of rust removal on the caliper bracket mounts today. We move on with the low budget items

[rhysnolan]

I have managed to beat the sump into submission. Not great but a bit of advice from a proper panel beater and a lot of time with ear defenders, big hammer and a brass drift as "sort of" reshaped the sump. Caliper brackets are better than "OK". Hubs rebuilt. o far the light and the end of the tunnel is a bit brighter. Shame that the vendor doesn't reply to emails asking for a receipt in lieu of the V5C!

[rhysnolan]

Never cease to be amazed what some folks will do! Don't forget the end float when you install the new bearings.

As well as that he had omitted to put back the very rare splined washer! Bearings either replaced, or regreased properly.
I now have the V5 on it's way, that will be a relief.
I now need to buy the new calipers, pads etc. Everything apart from that (and the lack of the splined washer) is back where it belongs, cleaned up, rust removed and treated and back on wheels so that I can move it around again. Rubber fuel lines are all replaced and with the advice to reroute the on on the carbs I did that to minimise heat.
The right hand side top arm has the spacers the wrong way round according to the manual, so another to add, while it's out I'll use a rebuild kit as there is a bit of slack.
Next task, remove the clutch slave cylinder and have a look. The starter is still with the auto electrician so no movement on that.

[rhysnolan]

Clutch slave cylinder out and waiting for new seals. That was fun, NOT) there isn't mushroom, must be a toadstool.

[Ye Ol Ripper]

Hi
With regards to the clutch slave cylinder . There were 2 different internal bore diameters , so ensure you ordered the correct set of seals. Also inspect the internal bore as they corrode badly and that corrosion can tear your new seals. I purchased a replacement cylinder last year from Chris Weedon of the Marina Club. My new cylinder has a stainless steel liner pressed in to prevent future corrosion.

With regards to your seized Brake pistons within your brake calipers , I have previously posted a method of removing them.

Scroll down this link to find my tips on getting the pistons out.

https://marlinownersclub.com/forum/node/113889

"29-03-23, 10:10 PM
Robin , it is recommended not to split the 2 halves of the Calliper although the Bid Redd Kit does include those seals also. I got my pistons out without splitting them.

The way I got the pistons out is as follows: Find a 3/8" Unf bolt and a ball bearing e.g. from a cycle hub. Remove all the rubber dust boots from around the pistons Using a syringe or small funnel , fill through the brake nipple hole and brake pipe holes with water, replace the nipple and place the ball bearing down the hole where the pipe went and lighly tighten the bolt onto it.

Get a strong G clamp and compress each piston in turn so they are rocking in and the other out a bit. It will take 5-8 goes at that. If they won't move . Place on the gas hob and heat up with the G clamp on one of them and you will hear the pistons creak as they start to move. When it gets hot enough the water will boil and force the piston out.
Wear Goggles and have an old coat on so you don't get scalded if the piston flies out.

The reason I recommend using water is that the pistons can fly out suddenly and spray your kitchen with fluid . At least water won't damage like brake fluid . The second piston if it was moveable can be blown out with 115psi using your air compressor.


I did also see a method on youtube that using a cartridge grease gun you undo the flexi pipe and make up using a suitable threaded fitting onto the grease gun with some brake pipe and the other fitting is a 3/8" /UNF. Fill with water and you can pump the pistons off the car.
However as we are only doing this once , I used the heating up of the callipers above."