Mike's Cabrio Build

[milliemarlin]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

This thread keeps reminding me of problems I had getting Millie through SVA. I can’t remember if there was a time limit on getting a retest but I nearly fell foul of a time limit on insurance. Flux only allowed insurance on an unregistered vehicle for a limited period. I can’t remember how long. They were quite content to invalidate my insurance with no refund. I manage to argue that the retest delay was outside of my control and they allowed me an extra week or so. Not sure if this applies to you but it might be worth checking.
I enjoy remembering the good bits too but you can’t get caught out by those.
Paul

[Mike]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Hi Mike, have you tried Speedy Cables? You can design your own cable on their website. Not actually used it but was thinking about doing so.

Hi Scott

Yes, I have used Speedycables before, but I felt they were a tad expensive. However, given that they are making a one off, I suppose I have to accept the cost will be much higher than mass produced cables.

My current thinking is I'll re-use my current cable by cutting the yoke off at one end, inserting a pair of 10mm stainless steel threaded adjusters, and then suage a new yoke on the cut end. This keeps all the ends, and the pull arrangement standard, but eliminates the poor nylon nut adjuster.

To get the best of both worlds (a better cable and a low cost!) I may send my existing cable to Speedycables, or cable-Tec and have them add the steel adjusters and suage a new end on to my existing cable, as it will be a better finish than me trying to silver solder an end on.

Mike

[scott h]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Hi Mike, have you tried Speedy Cables? You can design your own cable on their website. Not actually used it but was thinking about doing so.

[Mike]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Handbrake Cable

Part of the reason my car has taken so long to build is that I do like to keep improving known faults.
My handbrake cable adjusting nylon nut is apparently quite a common failing item, so I have done a little research on other possible options.

This looks to be an interesting option, eliminating the poor nyloc nut on the outer cable for adjustment, and is replaced by two proper steel threaded adjusters:



The cross 'bolt' could easily be attached by simple U clamp around the centre to the standard Sierra hand brake arm, and the rest then is standard Sierra arrangement. Seems to me to have a lot oif merit?

Can anyone see any drawbacks?

[dcunn]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Mike, have you spoken to Kit Spares (GB sportscars) they are Sierra people

Rgds DC

[stevejgreen]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Afraid to say that Sierra calipers follow the same problem as Toyota MR2 and MGF calipers in my experience. All work in a very similar way and the auto adjuster mechanism can be a puzzle.
Understanding how they work can be a great help.
IMHO most garage mechanics dont know. and at MOT time suggest fitting new handbrake cables etc. The problem lies inside the caliper, easy to resolve, but garage mechanics will prefer to swap the caliper rather than strip it down.
Many of the suggestions for winding the piston out are a temporary measure at best..

[Peterx]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Hi Mike,
it might be worth looking at this thread....

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=41946

just a thought....

...peter

[Mike]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Mike

It might be worth speaking to rally design or some of the other motorsport guys with experience of Sierra, I know the handbrake efficiency has always been a problem on the rear disc based Sierras, so it may be that someone has all ready produced an off the shelf solution to the problem. Worth a try to save reinventing the wheel.

John

Thaks John - I'll give them a try.

The standard Sierra cable adjuster design is really poor, and mechanically applying the pads on a disc sytem is never going to be good as they require so much more force than a drum brake to work efficiently.

[cabrioman]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Mike

It might be worth speaking to rally design or some of the other motorsport guys with experience of Sierra, I know the handbrake efficiency has always been a problem on the rear disc based Sierras, so it may be that someone has all ready produced an off the shelf solution to the problem. Worth a try to save reinventing the wheel.

John

[Mike]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

I think Mike needs to build another one as I am going to miss my daily dose of drama and suspense.

Mike's wife has rather a different view! " Never, ever again", and "divorce" were mentioned in the same sentence!

[Mike]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

The offending nuts!

IMG_5336[1].jpg

Its clear to see the outer cable is pulling through the lock nuts and sloughing up the black outer sleeve.

I tried tightening a jubilee clip around the nut but it did not work: so there was no way we could have fixed this at the test station.
The usual trick I believe is to add a piece of rubber hose behind the nuts and then jubilee clip it tight to the outer casing to stop the nuts sliding back: but my examiner was not going to accept this - and I have no complaints about that.

My current thoughts are to make two new adjusters using M12 x 50mm stainless bolts drilled down the centre with a standard nut and washer, located at the brake disc end. This will be much easier to access than the current nylon nuts which are obstructed by the exhaust and the prop shaft.

[Peterx]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

I think Mike needs to build another one as I am going to miss my daily dose of drama and suspense. Eastenders could learn a thing or two about cliff hangers !!.

What makes you think Mike has no upgrades already planned!!

[Peterx]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Not an official test of course that would prove difficult, but a trained set of eyes looking at that side of things (maybe even more relevant if you intend to drive your car to the IVA testing station.) Just a thought as you focus on meeting the IVA requirements. Anyway it was just something that came up in conversation with Mike last night. Well done Mike ,and I am sure that your build will indeed help others.

Just in case other builders are reading this thread, you can have an 'official' MOT test prior to the IVA examination. The MOT station will test it unregistered and will record it with the chassis (VIN) number. In my case, the MOT test before my SVA highlighted play in two new suspension ball joints that I had not noticed myself (faulty parts). These were frantically changed in the few days leading up to my SVA. After my SVA pass I returned to the MOT test station to pick up my MOT pass as well (still on the chassis number). At registration the DVLA re-issued my MOT certificate with the new age related plate number. (this wasn't expected and was a nice surprise!)
The only downside of this approach is you will then need to get an annual MOT every year following registration whereas with Mike's approach, he may get away with not needing an MOT until the cars third anniversary. Personally I believe that the inconvenience of annual MOT's is outweighed by the benefits and probably not a bad thing to do anyway as most things shake down (or loose!) in the first few years.

[cameronfurnival]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

I had a nag in the back of my brain about this problem and so did a quick google and came across the rhocar site (yet again - it seems a lot of what they have done to their cars is the same as what I have done on mine ...) anyhow....

http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=18362

It's a Sierra one, to suit drums or discs depending on what you have on your car. The only mod is that it's shortened. As I recall (and it was a long time ago I did this) you get a standard Sierra one, thread it through where it needs to go and seat it one end. You then will end up with a lot of excess on the other end which you need to cut off. To make the block on the end use the shank of an appropriate sized bolt (probably about M8) and drill a hole for the cable. Pass the cable through. To lock it on you have two options. Either a cold chisel and a big hammer to swage it on (Tricky did this in the build video) or (the way I did it) leave about 10mm or so excess cable and then use a MIG welder to chase it back to the bolt shank. That way you get a blob of weld that locks the bolt shank on.

Tim’s system works but as with all things Hoodie there are other ways.
Another way is to cut the new cable (inner) in half and assemble both half’s to the car then pass the cut ends through the D shaped part that is on the handbrake pull rod in opposite directions and clamp them together using small wire cable clamps obtainable at most DIY outlets. Use 2 on each side to be on the safe side, this is how I did mine and it's still good after 5+ years. Tim’s system is neater (that is if you are prone to looking under your car) but there is always a chance of your home made nipple pulling off also if you have discs on the back then you have little choice but to cut the cable as I have described as the end has a slotted nipple to fit over the hook on the calliper.

[Mike]

Re: Mike's Cabrio Build

Good job Mike, those minor points, whilst annoying, will soon be resolved. If its any consolation my cortina cable is exactly the same however the mot tester fitted a bit of rubber sleeve and a pipe clip to hold the useless plastic adjuster in place! Not sure mr iva would've liked that approach though! All the best for the retest, when are you taking it in?

Dave

Hi Dave

We did discuss possible options at the time.
The first was exactly your solution, but the examiner was not keen on quote: "a bodge" particularly since it did not provide any adjustment.
A second option was to attach a jubilee clip around the nut to squeeze it tighter onto the threads of the cable case to see if we could stop the cable pulling through.
By the time we had thought of this possible solution my Cabrio was off the lift ramps, and despite there being no other vehicles behind us, "Health & Safety rules" meant we could not have access to the lift during the examiner's lunch hour.
This was the nail in the coffin, so I gave up at this point, and accepted my fate.

Purely out of interest I may try fitting a jubille clip to the nut tonight, before removing my cable, just to see if it would have worked.

I believe your MOT tester's solution is quite common on road going Ford hand brakes - my problem was the IVA testers standards/guidelines were understandably a little higher for a "new car".

Mike