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DRL152K Marina based roadster rebuild
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Jag rev counter is electronic. But I also bought a conversion kit for it from a company called Spyder. So I have old school looks with modern electronics. Hopefully :-)
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That is looking superb I love the snape of the dash. How does the Jag tacho work? Mechanical or electric or mechanical?
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I have mocked up the dashboard. I am going for the minamilist look - large Jaguar rev-counter in the centre, standard Smiths fuel and combined oil pressure / temperature for the smaller gauges. Bicycle speedo and oddometer discreetly mounted. No glovebox as the suggested one is uselessly small.
dash mockup by Robin Martin, on Flickr
Lucas windcreen wiper motor and boxes trial fitted. These are a real b*gger to get right but essential to do so as they are fitted in the clamp which holds the screen in place. As this is sealed in with mastic once the screen is fitted so you don't want to be taking it out very often!
wiper motor installed by Robin Martin, on Flickr
Front brake pipes all run. I didn't follow the suggested route from the manual. I know that one of them bridges the point where the side mounted exhaust exits the bonnet side panel - but I am not going to be doing that with the exhaust anyway. I had to make the brackets for the front flexi pipes as my (very early) chassis was missing them. The flexis are a bit tight but I think they will be OK once the suspension is at its working height.
front brake pipes by Robin Martin, on Flickr
front brake pipe bracket by Robin Martin, on Flickr
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A few more pictures. Having a bit of a push at the moment.
front suspension complete by Robin Martin, on Flickr
pedalbox complete by Robin Martin, on Flickr
painted scuttle top by Robin Martin, on Flickr
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The half moon shape in your front scuttle, does anything live there?
Adrian
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My first attempt at coachpainting some of the fibreglass. it's not bad even if I do say so myself. This was coat number 5 - the first topcoat. 6th coat (2nd topcoat) looked better but forgot to take a picture. Still a long way from perfect but good enough. The red, by the way, is considerably darker in real life.
coach_painted1 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
And now I have started to re-assemble the car in ernest. Near side front suspension is done. The big problem with the Marina is you cannot adjust the castor. Which in turn affects the steering self centering - big time. But at least with my adjustable tie bars you can tweak it. By measuring the angle of the torsion bar relative to the chassis I have established that the castor is bang on the suggested 2.5 degrees. Hooray. Note the Heath Robinson angle device!
castor_angle by Robin Martin, on Flickr
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Yes. I wonder where I got the idea from :-)
Will be painting the doors though.
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Originally posted by martinclan56 View PostYes, coach paint for everything other than the bonnet top and sides which I will leave unpainted. That's when I have made them of course ;-)
PSX_20230310_084133.jpg
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Yes, coach paint for everything other than the bonnet top and sides which I will leave unpainted. That's when I have made them of course ;-)
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Outstanding job and fabulous looking result. I take it you are planning to use coach paint for the rest of the car as well?
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I have almost finished painting the chassis using CraftMaster coach paint. This requires a minimum of 6 coats, 2 x primer, 2 x undercoat and 2 x topcoat hence the long delay since I last posted (Plus I have had Covid). Although it takes ages to do the result is worth it.
I have done the main chassis in black raddle which is a sort of semi gloss. It's tough as old boots once it has had a few weeks to dry.
The bit of the chassis that supports the windscreen frame, and the frame itself is MG Maroon and boy is it shiny. This will match the body colour. The final coat I applied using brushes made by Purdy which cost an arm and a leg but the result is worth it.
chassis_painted1 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
chassis_painted2 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
Now all I have to do is paint the rest of the body!
Now the chassis is painted I have permanently fixed the front and rear bulkheads using a combination of stainless screws and mastic.
I have also made a new front grill using some stainless mesh, as the old "crinkly wires" used by Marlin are no longer available. It's a bit of a b*gger to cut but the result is quite pleasing.
new_grill by Robin Martin, on Flickr
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I have repaired and trial fitted the rear wing that had been previously been bodged. Also filled the many holes previously used to fix it as I wanted to start again. And.... filled the ragged holes where the lights were fixed. I am planning on using some round Lucas style lights rather than the original Marlin supplied Rubolite ones
As I am fitting cycle wings at the front I have also shortened the rear wing removing the stub of the running board where it would have joined to the front wings. Considering the original plan was to fit cycle wings all round it actually looks pretty good. The fit of the wing is not the best though - nothing I have done - that's just how it was made. But by the time I fit some wing piping the gap that appears at the top will disappear (I hope). I could probably pull the tub and wing together a bit more but I didn't want to over stress 40 year old fibreglass.
On to the other wing now....
rear_wing_repair by Robin Martin, on Flickr
rear_wing_fitted1 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
rear_wing_fitted2 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
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